Congratudolences!
Now, the first thing you need is a transom saver.
Looks nice. As a fellow boat owner I extend my deepest sympathies.
Be sure to read up on damage transom savers cause.
Much better alternatives.
Please correct me if something has changed but I bet your owners manual does not recommend them?
I’m only a one-year boat owner, but mine came with one and I use it. It’s a Tracker Classic 17-ft with a 50 Merc. I can’t visualize how it could cause damage but I can sure see how it prevents any.
Just did an online search and saw that aluminum boats can be more easily damaged by “motor bounce” while towing than fiberglass boats. Transom savers recommended for aluminum boats, especially if the motor has to be trimmed up for road clearance.
Some speculated that a bar between the trailer and motor lower unit could transfer enough force to damage the motor, but it was only speculation.
I’d go with whatever the owner’s manual says, or the dealer.
If you do decide to run a transom saver pay particular attention to the connection at bottom of saver to trailer. I don’t need to describe the forces that will be transferred to your outboard if that breaks/slips out while boat/trailer is traveling 75 mph down the highway.
Also, pay attention to the rubber pads that separate your aluminum LU from the steel bolts itching to drive themselves in to the aluminum.
Transom Savers have helped sell a lot of replacement LU’s and to help keep aluminum welders making their own boat payments.
Well turns out Lund has no recommendation for or against a transom saver.
But Mercury says if you can’t tow with your motor in the vertical position, use a support device. So I guess a transom saver is in my future 
I did take advantage of some gorgeous weather to get a little engine break in done and knock the newness off with a few cutthroats.
Now if I can just get that i-pilot figured out… :dodgy:
Same here. I use one only in transit and then lower the motor fully when in storage.
BTW, here’s something you might also invest in. With your motor up, you risk people running into it - or even people brushing against it and hurting themselves. Even Bill Dance uses one! Prop Alert Safety Cover.
On your last trip of the year pull your boat up to the parking lot and lower your engine as much as possible to drain as much water as possible.
Then pull your engine lanyard key so motor will not start.
Then crank engine just a few revolutions.
It will remove the last little bit of water trapped between the vanes of your water pump impeller.
Do this at the ramp when the insides of your motor is still being drained of water.
Don’t do it at home after it has had a chance to dry.
Hi Curt,
Definitely not good on impeller vanes if you do it dry, that is why you do it right after you pull boat on your last trip of the year.
You don’t want the water trapped in the vanes freezing and expanding against each other during the winter.
Better yet, keep it in a heated shop and don’t put boat away for winter (Powell, Mead, Sand Hollow, etc).
Have a good night, Shane
Probably not the smartest thing I’ve ever done but this little guy followed me home the other night
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