A few weeks ago I picked up a new-to-me Lowrance Elite-7 CHIRP unit. I usually research the death out of things before I buy but this looked like a good deal on a quality machine so I took it. Of course I have been researching it since and do think I did all right paying $100 for it where it sold in the $600 range when new. Let me know if I made a good deal or not (be firm but gentle if you have to tell me I blew it). I hope some of you have insight into its features and functions. I’m about as green as can be with this technology so anything will help. It will be a big step up from the two little old ones my boat came with. I will also be using it to set waypoints for fishing on Strawberry and other lakes.
congrats, sounds like a good deal, the biggest thing is could say to learn is to use the GPS, mark everything, especially UL where the bottom comes up on the rock edges, mark it every time you go across it.
Yeah Mike, I’m so wary of those rocks that I stay hundreds of yards out and get nervous when I get into 8 fow. I will be experimenting with no-snag sinkers this year and, heck, I might even catch a walleye. That little island down past the orchards that you told me about last year makes me nervous too.
big motor up, zig zag marking the bottom is al I have done, its lower than last year so be careful up in the shallower stuff.
You made a great deal. I got mine several 5 years ago at the $600 price. I have really enjoyed the Side and Bottom Imaging. I’m most happy with the touch screen. The only thing it didn’t have that I wanted was contour mapping, which I believe the newer model has. I would suggest watching the many Youtube tutorials that Lowrance has on this unit. You should also consider using the Tracking option when you are marking your waypoints on UL to use for easy avoidance in the future.
Side image of building foundation at Willard Bay. Left Image only not both sides.
That is what I have on my boat. I found it in a Texas Cabela’s Bargain Cave for $460. You stole that and you should avoid law enforcement at all costs when out in your boat with it installed. 
As already mentioned, make YouTube your friend on all the features.
Craig, as already stated, you made a really good deal on that sonar. I have the Hook 7 model also, purchased at Farmington Cabelas 4 years ago. It has been ultra accurate and reliable.
There are several sites on-line where you can download updates to the pre-loaded lake maps , then update your unit on the boat.
Like Burley said, use your tracking feature. Anytime you go anywhere for the first time, especially on UL, go slow, keep eyes on the depth and record that first track. If it was safe depth going in, follow it back out with no worries.
Since the guy I got it from was using it on a snowmobile just to use the GPS, I didn’t get a transducer with it. It looks like the right one costs a little over $100. Would it be wise to buy a better one than what it came with?
Craig, I’ve got a normal chirp ducer and a total scan ducer that aren’t currently installed. You can try them temporarily if you aren’t sure which one you want to buy
If I may add a thought, put a transducer mounting board on your transom. You will likely need to relocate position several times to get best image so there will only be 2 holes in your boat instead of 4,6,or 8.
Here is another tip for all y’all. Measure the angle of your boat as it sits in the water at your normal trolling speed. You do this by setting up the boat to troll and then troll in a straight line at say 1.5 to 2 mph. Place a small level along the gunnel in line with the length of the boat. Now place some coins or thin washers under one end of the level until the level is level. Now you have a reference. Note the number of coins/washers needed.
At home, set up the level on the same spot with the same number of coins/washers and use the trailer jack to make the level read level again. Now use the same level WITHOUT the coins/washers and adjust the transducer (TD) angle to level and now the TD will be looking straight down under the boat while trolling instead of forward if you were to align the TD level with the boat bottom. If you want the TD looking slightly rearward, you can adjust the angle for that from the dead level. Some folks like to have the TD looking slightly rearward to better see the DR weights (especially round balls that have more blow back) while trolling. You decide. My TD is dead level to look straight down while trolling.
Pieces of plastic. That’s all they are. I have a lot of it in even large sizes that I saved from the dumpster. High Density Polyethylene (HDPE) mostly in white. Price for BFT friends - FREE. Cut to requested size - also FREE. Ronald 