Inspired by one of Tube Dudes responses in another thread I
thought I’d start one to help those who may be novice to more
casual anglers. Although I consider myself to be a very avid and
serious (sometimes too serious) angler, I don’t pretend to have all
the answers and still learn plenty from others. So I’ll leave it to
others to fill in my gaps. Remember, this is for the novice or casual
angler to help him or her improve their experience.
I don’t really want to get into rods and reels in this discussion but
focus on the simple stuff that is so easy to ignore or skimp on such
as line, knots, and hooks. Haven’t seen much discussion on this for awhile now. It amazes me, like Tube Dude, how many anglers there are that buy the cheepest equipment they can find and don’t take any care of it and get mad when it doesn’t work.
Line – Line is certainly one of the most important parts of your
equipment. It literally connects you to your quarry. DON’T SKIMP
ON IT! Your asking for disappointment if you do. Cheep junk line,
the $2.99 special at Wally World isn’t worth a dime. Invest your
money on quality line such as Trilene, Suffix, Stren, etc.. If you’re a
casual angler you don’t need to worry about superlines,
fluorocarbons or nanofil. Just get a good quality monofiliment.
Lighter line (2 to 8 lb) works best for smaller lures and heavy line
(10 lb+) is better for larger lures. It has to do with how limp and
straight the line is comming off the reel. For typical trout and panfish 4 to 6 lb test line is my choice for most situations. Bass, walleye and larger trout I choose 6 to 12 lb test line for most situations.
Monofiliment needs to be stored out of sunlight and it must be
changed every now and then. If you only fish once a month you
might get away with every other year but I recommend putting new
line on at least annually. I change mine out at least semi-annually
and high use line quarterly. Check the last foot or two after catching fish or getting snagged and retie if you feel any damged line. After every trip check the last several yards for damage and trim damaged line.
Knots – I’m stunned how many anglers connect their lures with
simple overhand knots, square knots, slip knots or other unique
tangled creations. The knot is the weakest part connecting you to
the fish, you need to get this part right so you don’t lose that fish of a life time right at the net. I’ve been fishing for 40 years and I like to keep it simple. I use a few knots for virtually all my fishing needs. Do a web search for “fishing knots” and you will find plenty of resources explaining and showing how to tie them.
For line to lure or hook I use the Trilene knot, improved clinch knot, palomar knot and a loop knot I don’t know the name of. Most of these retain 90%+ line strength when tied correctly. Be sure to
moisten the line wraps before tightening, this allows the knot to
tighten with less friction that can damage the knot. The finished knot should look pretty crisp and clean, not lumpy and ragged. Don’t be affraid to test its strength. If it breaks easily (much less than the line test weight) you tied it wrong and you would have lost your fish and tackle causing you to wax eloquent with profanity offending many within earshot. Test your knots.
For line to line connections I like the uni knot and the blood knot.
Hooks – Cheep hooks are nothing but trouble. They are dull and
they bend or break easily. While I don’t think you need Trokar hooks at over $1 each you would serve yourself well to buy hooks or lures with hooks made by Eagle Claw, Mustad, Gamakatsu, VMC among others. Stay away from Danielson and South Bend nickle and dime hooks.
Sinkers – I like lead. I don’t like steel or tin and, although I’m sure
it’s great stuff, I can’t afford tungston. I don’t subscribe to global
warming or “humans are destroying the world” so I’ll use lead as
long as it’s legal.
Feel free to add your 0.02 cents or ask questions. I’ll take PM’s if
you’re too shy to ask on the open forum.