Yup, Winding against the drag will only create line twists. I would say that you should either tighten the drag, or let the fish run, and then wind after the run. This would depend upon the strength of the line, or the possibility of the fish running to a tangle where you might loose it.
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I hope that my explanations are
understandable, I don’t always get my point across.
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I hope that my explanations are
understandable, I don’t always get my point across.
Yup. It apparently is just as I thought. Like I wrote earlier though, I’ve never practiced that bad habit.
I’m not gonna buy one of these.
- I get tired of spending money.
- I don’t have a big birds nest problem.
Before posting this reply, I went to search for a post (that I swore was on the Utah Board) about some ole timer showing some guy a trick about getting rid of a birds nest. Had something to do with pulling out the nest while it was on the spool. Said he swore it worked darn near every time.
Searched “birds nest” and “old timer”; just couldn’t find it. Knew I s/h added it to my spreadsheet library when I read it first time (and apparently the last time…)
Thx for your replies.
**I fish with both baitcast and spinning. Both have their places. But, I probably fish spinning tackle 3 to 1 over baitcast. And I have been fishing with spinning gear for about 50 years. I will not claim I do not get occasional loops, tangles and “malfunctions”. Almost impossible to avoid completely. But, by winding the line properly on the spool when filling and then staying alert for minor loops…and removing them as they occur…you will end up with fewer “boiloffs” and other problems. **
Most problems with line on spinning reels are the result of (A) spooling with line too heavy for the spool diameter (B) winding line off the line spool in the wrong direction. (C) Putting too much line on the reel spool (D) Continuing to reel while a fish is running line or staying in one place. (puts twists in the line) or (E) Casting or trolling lures that twist the line…without using a good swivel.
Another problem with line on spinning reels is either spooling up with the cheap stuff…or letting it stay on the reel far too long before changing it. Poor line and/or old line turns stiff and develops line springs…“memory”. Spinning line should be soft enough to peel off the spool easity and should go back on the spool without kinking and looping.
If you have a decent reel, with quality line, of the right diameter…and if you “pump and reel” on large fish…and if you stop the line with your forefinger at the end of a cast…and raise your rod when closing the bail (to take out slack loops)…and maintain tension on the line while retrieving…and if you pay attention to your gear…Well, you can avoid a lot of the potential problems.
But…nobody is immune to some problems.
And, I seriously question whether the design of the “wonder reel” can overcome ineptness and carelessness of some guys who would get problems with any kind of reel. There are too many other variables…besides design issues.
I have to agree with your last statement, People who try to build things that are foolproof, usally understimate the fools they are trying to help.
Everything else is true too. Old line, heavy line, and line that has developed a memory will all cause loops to jump off the reel.
One thing I do that may sound unorthodoxed is I ALWAYS close the bail by hand. It seems awkward but after years of doing it and having few loop problems, it comes quick and natural to me. Also use a premium line like P-Line or Maxima. Another feature of that reel is claims of up to 30% longer cast due to less contact with the line on the spool lip. I might try this reel. I mainly fish 1/16 ounce jigs for trout so I need all the help I can get on distance! If I can cast 80-90 feet instead of 60-70 I’ll nominate this guy for a medal.
Don’t get me wrong, I’m not putting that reel down, it’s just that I don’t think it would do me much good.
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Even though I’ve been a major gear freak all my life, having to have the latest and greatest, in recent years, I’ve learned to control it. (I’m the guy that paid $500.00 for a early digital camera that weighed a ton, and was less than one meg.)
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If I told you the stories, you would think that I was crazy or wealthy. The Troll (wife) tells the stories better than I do.
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“If I told you the stories, you would think that I was crazy or wealthy. The Troll (wife) tells the stories better than I do.” Isn’t it great to have a wife with an excellent memory for those little details? I know that I am also so blessed.
Oh yea, they’re a real treasure. She has controlled my nonsense for the past 45 years.
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Last Wednesday, was out 45 year. I guess when we’re speaking again, we’ll wish each other Happy Adversary.
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I consider mine a real blessing. If it wasn’t for her advise I would waste far more money than I already do on my obsession, I mean my hobby.
I too always close the bail by hand. I’ve actually heard multiple pros on tv say that it’s better for some reason or the other to use your hand, and not crank the handle. Also I looked at this reel on cabelas website and I have to say that the handle looked kind of weird? I don’t know if I would like holding something round after years of the other. Just my $.02
Hey bud, I do the same thing. when using my spinning rod I’ll flip the bail over with my left hand. If it’s going too far I can slow down the line as well. Is this a strange thing to do? I’ve done it for so long it’s second nature.
Well O.K., here’s my take on this whole reel issue. Anyone who doesn’t ever get an occasional loop in their line, probably doesn’t spend eight hours throwing jigs. I do.
Fishing Bird island for spring Walleye can be tricky. I f your jig hits bottom, it’s snagged. And sometimes your only casting to two feet of water. Which forces you to set your bail while the lure is in the air, and start reeling the second it hits the water. If you use your reel handle to flip the bail, it will throw a loop in the line. Usually you won’t notice it. But sooner or later it will mess you up.
For the last couple years I have only purchased Shimano Stradic reels for throwing jigs. They are up to about 159.00 now. Great reels, but you still get loops. And a loop means you have to stop and fix it. Snagged! So, I always flip my bail over with my left thumb. And every now and then, it still throws a loop in the line. Not cheap line either. Pat talked me into trying Silver Thread a few years ago. When he lived in Arizona. That’s all I use now, and it’s great stuff. So if this reel really does take out loops and cast further than my Stradics, it’s a bargain at 80.00. The only thing I don’t really like is the gear ratio. A bit slow.
So I’m going to order one and give it a test drive. Guess I need to get a new Loomis SJR 783 to go with it. Hey Chuck, ready to build me a new rod?[:/]