Whose PWM do you use? I was going to go do some research at Castle and see if they had something.
Boosting to 24V usually is an advantage as well because these motors are almost always running in the I2R dominant loss area.
I may be getting a second motor with my toon buy so I’ll have one to really “experiment” with 
MD:
Whose PWM do you use? I was going to go do some research at Castle and see if they had something.
PON: Motorguide 12/24v which is no longer made, bought maybe 15 years ago.
Boosting to 24V usually is an advantage as well because these motors are almost always running in the I2R dominant loss area.
PON: Yes, it is also possible to double the maximum power of any multi speed switch type 12V rated troll motor by running at 24V without damage. Trick is to use a smaller/lower pitch prop and run at 24V! The key is to pick the prop so that the measured AMPS does not exceed the maximum amps rating at 12V. Ran a MK troll like that for over 5 years of heavy use and the insides looked good upon inspection- I still have it in storage.
I may be getting a second motor with my toon buy so I’ll have one to really “experiment” with
Pon
If the OP is buying a NEW motor or anyone else, I suggest you wait to do any of these mods till out of warranty 
It was pretty easy to do many years ago because MK used the same the identical 95 motor for both the 12v cheapie low thrust and 24v expensive turbo thrust. The only functional difference was the propeller, so I just bought the perfect fit 24v prop and slid on my cheapie without any alterations. Then I ran only on highest speed with an external retrofit 24V speed control.
Sorry, didn’t mean to imply alterations was something everyone should do to either an old or new motor if they don’t know why it works. The motor could get damaged and there could be possible injury if it is not done correctly.
Pon
If the OP is buying a NEW motor or anyone else, I suggest you wait to do any of these mods till out of warranty
Wow, what a week!! As I watched many of my co-workers retire over the years, I also heard “man I don’t know how I got anything done when I worked”. I just thought “yea, right”, well I’m here to tell you! LOL
No warranties to be concerned with. The toon is a Leigh. Which when I went to find a new bladder for it, I discovered the company is long gone. My MK 50 PD is probably at least 6 - 8 years old, I’m sure no warranty exists there. I am now starting to wonder about the weight. The shelf on the back seems pretty lightweight, it slides into the main frame only by a couple inches and then pins in. I think I will have to try and come up with a way to support the shelf. Most of the time when I travel with the toon I will have to disassemble it, hope I’m not going to get to complicated with it. Have any of you had to support the rear shelf?
Only one that has a Leigh is Albino. We had one when they first came out many years ago, but that is long gone.
Well Albino, what do you think about the xtra weight on the rear shelf? I would assume your frame would be similar if not identical to mine. I know I saw a good pic of your toon, but for the life of me I can’t find it again.Thx.
Woohoo! I am not the only one any more.
I found a way to use an outcast motor mount on my toon using some PVC to make a rack that attaches to the toons using cam straps. I used a mix of code 80 and code 40 and a couple pieces of code 20 to get it to work.
One thing to keep in mind is with the weight on the rear you will need to move the frame forward just a bit on the toons so that you will sit level in the water. I run with a full size deep cycle battery and a minn kota 34.