Thanks for the info. I have looked at Sportsmans for something like that but didn’t see anything. And the only thing at walmart was the actual file. I will keep looking but for now I will stick with what I got because it works enough to get me through the next couple weeks.
In Idaho, most blades are dulled from the blowing dirt that is embedded in the ice. I can touch up my 10" gasser with a stone and get through two seasons of fishing quite a bit. I checked with the guy that sharpens all my cutters for the cabinet shop but he wants almost the cost of new cutters to computer sharpen them.
[crazy] I hadn’t thought about the blowing dust, but it makes sense. You can see it coating all the old snow in the area. It makes sense that it would be imbedded in the ice too.
DeeCee
With augers do not hit them on the ice or you can bend the metal where blades attach. This will throw off the angle of the blades and will wander alot when starting a hole. You can shim the back side of the blades to change the cutting angle .
Thanks . I have done that sereral times .
With augers do not hit them on the ice or you can bend the metal where blades attach. This will throw off the angle of the blades and will wander alot when starting a hole. You can shim the back side of the blades to change the cutting angle .
I’ve done that dozens and dozens of times with mine and it doesn’t appear to have changed the angle. Maybe your is a cheaper metal or something. Either way, I agree with you. If it doesn’t change the angles, it definitely will dull the blades quickly. It’s not a good idea. I’ve also broken blades that way. Good blades a brittle and will break. That ruins them for sure.
All,
I have a power auger. However, it is not logical to me that there would be a difference concerning the subject of blade sharpening. I was faced with the dull blade scenario last year and although sending them in to get sharpened was recommended by most internet sources, I simply didn’t have the luxury of time. The do-it-yourself recommendations included not trying to sharpen from the “back side”. What they meant was to only remove metal from the obvious surface where the bulk of the cutting surface lies. Maintaining the angle is not difficult, or at least I didn’t find it that hard. I used a very stiff sanding disk on my drill (I am not sure what it is called but it is green and looks like woven fiber that has been treated with a super hardening agent) and followed it up with a metal file. There were a couple serrations, and I used a round file there. I think that I also used cutting oil to help the process but can’t remember for sure. Anyway, the unit cut like new after that and still performs well, a year later and hundreds of feet of cut ice later.
That said, I would still like to know of a local outlet so that we could get them sharpened professionally.
FR