I was never able to find one of those boxes the right size. Either too small which wasn’t a bad thing but it would tip over, or just too big that I had to inflate the tube around it and that just didn’t feel right.
I know they make those boxes now in a ton of different sizes though so there has got to be one just right.
About the ODC material. It is great material but it can still blow out. Majja had one blow out while sitting in the back of his truck.
They have those storage containers everywhere…Home Depot, Wally World, Drug Stores, you name it. You can also find a lot of different sizes for cheap at yard sales this time of year.
Best to get the measurements of what size you want and then go shopping. You CAN inflate around them if they are just a tad large.
There are also some different size insulated containers that fit in the back. Some guys just load up with beer and ice and don’t worry about any extra tackle or stuff. Priorities. Works better in warm water when you don’t have to wear waders and worry about downloading bilge water.
About the ODC material. It is great material but it can still blow out. Majja had one blow out while sitting in the back of his truck.
Not sure if this was in regards to what I said, but I was referring to the heavy PVC material on the bottom and how it feels like it would be resistant to puncture from the outside.
Regarding the bladders, I’m guessing they’re pretty standard and sufficient unless you’re used to urethane. I have heard about bladders failing from most tube manufacturers. Some were by user error and others from poor quality. I guess you have to just take care of your gear, and if it’s a manufacturer issue hope they have good customer service.
You are right about the PVC being a big plus…it is.
The problem is they can’t regulate vinyl in China to be a constant thickness, so you are absolutely right about some good some not.
The blow out can happen to any boat. I am not sure what happened to Majja’s other than he was loading for an outing and heard a hissss.
Silly question on the topic of blow-outs, How much air do you want to put in the tubes. Until stiff to the touch, or do you want the tube to have some give. I have heard not to over inflate them but I would hate to get out and not have enough air. KWIM any thoughts, I don’t have a tube with urathane bladders so I want to be careful. Like ODB said > hope they have good customer service
and from what I have heard Creek Co is good on their word.
That’s always a tricky question. I think you get a feel for it over time, but I inflate mine until the wrinkles are almost completely out and the tube is firm to the touch, requiring a little pressure to make a dent. From my experience, a tube will contract slightly in all but the warmest water (at least in my area) so I try to keep it on the tight side. But there’s a fine line between inflated and overinflated, so be careful.
Blown seams on your bladder are extremely rare and almost 100% due to owner error and not to manufacturing defects. And, if you overinflate, it does not matter whether you have urethane or vinyl. Only a very slight difference. Both will blow under too much pressure.
Here are a few things to remember:
1. Do not transport a fully inflated tube inside your vehicle…or outside on a hot sunny day. Always bleed off some air before loading up for the trip to or from the water…or inbetween spots. Only takes a minute to top off your craft but an explosion pretty much ends your day…and raises your laundry bill.
2. On a cold morning, air your craft up at waters edge when you first get there. After it has “stabilized” in the cold air, check it again for firmness and add air if needed to bring the cover to a good firm-to-the-touch level. NOT ROCK HARD.
3. After tubing for awhile on cool mornings, and the sun has come out and warmed things up, recheck the firmness on your tube. If it is ROCK HARD, let out a little air…not enough to make the cover soft.
4. When you beach your craft after fishing in the hot sun, bleed off some air if the tube will be sitting there for any time at all. Once the tube is pulled up out of the cooling water and rests in the direct hot sun, it will expand quickly. I have seen tubes explode while the owners were away from them “downloading” the morning coffee.
5. Do not air up a tube outside or in a cold garage and then bring it into a warm house. Same thing. Could expand enough to split a cover if not blow the bladder. Been there, done that.
If you have a good double action pump, there is no excuse for leaving your tube fully inflated when not in use. A partially deflated tube is still rigid enough to move easily and is quickly topped off with only a few strokes on the pump.
**In short, a firmly inflated tube is necessary for proper floatation and navigation on the water. But, a serious tuber will monitor the firmness of their craft throughout the day. If you carry a small pump with you, you can add air if the cold water or a cool breeze causes it to sag a little…or if you develop a slow leak. If the cover gets too tight, drop the pressure a bit to prevent unnecessary strain on the cover and the bladder. **
TD How long you been doing this? Seriously you have been a life saver for answering the questions that keep me awake at night. Thanks a bunch. You know your stuff and it all makes sense so Kudos to you, and your quest ot bring float tubing to the world!
Glad to help and happy to help others shorten the learning curve. I have been tubing over 50 years. Yep. I was one of the early pioneers. Used to make all my own stuff.
Attached is the artwork for the CD label for my new book…in the final editing stage. Been writing it for the last 30 years and I’m finally gonna put it to bed. Modern technology is great. I can self produce it and keep the costs way down. I have no false illusions that it will be on the Oprah show or become a national best seller. Not looking to get rich from it…just cover some expenses and maybe enough for a new tube once in awhile.
I’ll be posting up an announcement probably in the next week or so. I am setting up a separate float tubing website,with a lot of the info available free, but the CD book will be $29.95 online. However, I am making it a flat $20 for all BFT members…including mailing.
TD that is one sweet pic do you need any proofreaders 
I would love a copy as soon as it is ready. I truly enjoy all the pics you post you have a keen eye for good shots. I really enjoy your tube knowledge. Only one question for you today as I have been full of them lately, how does your transducer and troller pvc setup work. I mean how is it attached to your boat. Any way keep us up to date on your pet project book and web site.
Thanks for all your help.
Mernie
Thanks for the offer of assistance, but I have a couple of other editors helping with the final product. Also, I was the kid who always won the spelling bees…plus I have good spellcheck and editing on my Word program. Should be good to go. Of course I DO take some liberties with the English language and proper grammar…as a matter of personal style.
I am going to be getting a new Eagle Cuda 300 sonar system within the next few days, and I will do a pictorial on the installation. But, I also did one for my 168EX a while back, showing the use of the 2"X2" wooden block inside the front of the pocket upon which I mount some of the goodies. Here is he link:
Hey, those are some good pointers on inflation. Do you ever use a pressure guage? With pontoons that have points, I find the “feel” for “firmnes” method a little more difficult. The tubes will be softer toward the points and harder in the main body area. Once you know your tubes well, you know which area to test. But that is harder on something new or somebody else’s pontoons. Also, in pontoons, doesn’t the outer cover material or lack of bladder affect the recommended firmness? Some pontoon frame designs depend on high pressure to clamp and hold the frame in place. What do you think of bladderless tubes, like the versavessel type? This may not apply to float tubes, since almost all have bladders.
Looking forward to your book. Really appreciate your tips.
Pon
Blown seams on your bladder are extremely rare and almost 100% due to owner error and not to manufacturing defects. And, if you overinflate, it does not matter whether you have urethane or vinyl. Only a very slight difference. Both will blow under too much pressure.
Here are a few things to remember:
1. Do not transport a fully inflated tube inside your vehicle…or outside on a hot sunny day. Always bleed off some air before loading up for the trip to or from the water…or inbetween spots. Only takes a minute to top off your craft but an explosion pretty much ends your day…and raises your laundry bill.
2. On a cold morning, air your craft up at waters edge when you first get there. After it has “stabilized” in the cold air, check it again for firmness and add air if needed to bring the cover to a good firm-to-the-touch level. NOT ROCK HARD.
3. After tubing for awhile on cool mornings, and the sun has come out and warmed things up, recheck the firmness on your tube. If it is ROCK HARD, let out a little air…not enough to make the cover soft.
4. When you beach your craft after fishing in the hot sun, bleed off some air if the tube will be sitting there for any time at all. Once the tube is pulled up out of the cooling water and rests in the direct hot sun, it will expand quickly. I have seen tubes explode while the owners were away from them “downloading” the morning coffee.
5. Do not air up a tube outside or in a cold garage and then bring it into a warm house. Same thing. Could expand enough to split a cover if not blow the bladder. Been there, done that.
If you have a good double action pump, there is no excuse for leaving your tube fully inflated when not in use. A partially deflated tube is still rigid enough to move easily and is quickly topped off with only a few strokes on the pump.
**In short, a firmly inflated tube is necessary for proper floatation and navigation on the water. But, a serious tuber will monitor the firmness of their craft throughout the day. If you carry a small pump with you, you can add air if the cold water or a cool breeze causes it to sag a little…or if you develop a slow leak. If the cover gets too tight, drop the pressure a bit to prevent unnecessary strain on the cover and the bladder. **
You are correct in your assessment that learning your craft, and how it operates, is the easiest way to know when “enough is enough”. Newbie tubers and tooners are generally prone to put more air in their craft than really necessary. As long as the tube or toon rides firmly on the water, with no sagging, it is plenty full. Overfilling…especially early on a cool morning…can lead to the bladders expanding and becoming too firm later on a warming day.
I have NEVER used a pressure guage. Even when I used to fish from donuts, with inner tubes, I did not use a tire pressure guage. I don’t know what you would use to test the pressure on some of the modern valves on vinyl or urethane bladders. In most cases you will not be putting more than 3 or 4 psi pressure in your craft. And, there can be quite a difference in cover firmness with only a half psi. Just using your common sense and monitoring firmness is as accurate as any kind of pressure guage.
You also made a good point about the pointy ends of toons and some tubes being softer than the midpoint on the bladders. I actually use that as a part of my “feel for firmness” program to judge whether I am good to go. I keep checking firmness visually as I pump and then when it looks solid, I feel the pointed end of my SFC. If it is firm too, I know I am done. If it is very soft, I know that only a couple of strokes on the pump will probably finish it off. It is the last part of the bladder to firm up.
That being said, this system will not work for all tubes and toons. For example, the Outcast Fish Cat tubes have two bladders…with pointy ends. No matter how good you are at fitting them inside the cover, they do not always fill the cover as they are supposed to. It is common to have a soft point on one or both bladders when the main bladder is rock hard. So, again, use common sense and do not feel that all parts of the air chamber have to be equally firm.
There CAN be a difference in the “inflation tolerance” between different craft. A float tube with a thin vinyl bladder and a wimpy fabric cover is much more likely to “self destruct” under lower pressure. On the other hand, some river-worthy pontoons have heavy guage material and super stitching on their covers and could probably contain air bladders overinflated by twice the recommended pressure.
I have watched the Versavessels on different websites. Good concept but haven’t had the yearning or “net spendable” to put one in my personal arsenal yet. That is one thing about our little niche market…floatation fishing. It has grown enough over the past 3 decades that it has attracted more manufacturers into the field (lake). Hopefully they are successful enough to weather the initial reluctance of most folks to try something new…especially if it costs more.
Thanks for your kindly comments. I appreciate your appreciation.
I am going to say that Urethane is NOT as touchy. I have watched the vinyl people do as you say and sound advice for sure, as I too had ONE tube that was vinyl. It did blow from sitting in the sun, but it was very inexpensive and it wasn’t the bladder, it was the nylon cover.
As far as my Urethane (SFC, H3, ALPINE, NAVIGATOR II., etc) I do let air out when going to the Uintas and a little out to go to Strawberry, but once there I don’t have to adjust air at all. Never have from cold morning to hot afternoons…no problem.
So I do think it makes a difference. Not only the material of the bladder but the outer cover as well.
Man I would be exhausted or canoeing it if I had to keep checking the air as you described…LOL
Hey, those are some good pointers on inflation. Do you ever use a pressure guage? With pontoons that have points, I find the “feel” for “firmnes” method a little more difficult. The tubes will be softer toward the points and harder in the main body area. Once you know your tubes well, you know which area to test. But that is harder on something new or somebody else’s pontoons. Also, in pontoons, doesn’t the outer cover material or lack of bladder affect the recommended firmness? Some pontoon frame designs depend on high pressure to clamp and hold the frame in place. What do you think of bladderless tubes, like the versavessel type? This may not apply to float tubes, since almost all have bladders.
Looking forward to your book. Really appreciate your tips.
Pon
**My new boat is Bladderless. I DO NOT trust gauges. I have seen two people blow up there boat with so called gauged compressors.
I use an LVM in which I can inflate a 10’6" pontoon (and have a video to prove it) in 1 minute 15 seconds. I then attach frame and top off by hand. You should be able to push a dimple in the toon.
You are right though, MOST pontoons do require full air to attach frame, …but not my new one[;)]**
OK TD you continue to amaze me matter of fact you are the sh*t. I have been trying to figure out how you attach your trolling holders. That sonar link and fllowing posts explain it crystal clear. You said to heck with my pretty new tube and put some screws trough you pockets in order to put as much stuff on your tube as possible. I only have a couple of rods so I am toying with the idea of a 3 rod rack making the front tube angled forward to use as a troller.
Any thoughts from the guru, or the membership?
Big Mernie
**My new boat is Bladderless.
Repairs on bladderless can only be done on the outside which don’t hold as well AFAIK. But I have never had to repair a bladderless since the material is generally thicker…
I DO NOT trust gauges. I have seen two people blow up there boat with so called gauged compressors.
*I don’t trust some gauges either, but trust testing with finger pressure even less! I learned how and where to finger test my 'toon by using a high quality low pressure calibrated gauge that only reads to 5 psi. Cheap soccer ball gauges (20 psi), were then checked against the quality gauge to use in the field in case of loss- no big deal. Use a little WD-40 on the soccer ball gauge stem if they don’t calibrate right, and that brings them back on. Adapt to any fitting with snug latex hose and inflation connectors. Car type compressor guages read to 100 psi and can’t even tell where 3 psi is on the scale if the first line starts at 10…
*I use an LVM in which I can inflate a 10’6" pontoon (and have a video to prove it) in 1 minute 15 seconds. I then attach frame and top off by hand. You should be able to push a dimple in the toon.
*Sounds good to me, I use a fast vane pump also, then trim with hand pump. They make some other types that shut off at a pressure setting you select. Or you can use LVM that doesn’t go above 4 psi pressure, then back off a little to proper finger pressure if need be. Google Water strider- has some unusual pumps and gauges if you happen to need for special situations.
When on the road and going light, I use a minature vane pump and top off with a short hose from a vehicle’s spare tire, the clamp to the tire valve has a restriction that makes the flow easy to control.
Whatever floats our boats, ha…
Pon *
**
**“I only have a couple of rods so I am toying with the idea of a 3 rod rack making the front tube angled forward to use as a troller.”
**
**There are quite a few tubers and tooners who have rigged their rod racks with a forward slanting tube on the front to hold rods while trolling, bottom bouncing or soaking bait. **
I have mine rigged on both sides and adjusted so that they angle slightly out and at a lower angle over the water…just right for walleye drifting or bait dragging. With both of them thus angled, it keeps the two lines further apart when I am using both.
But, if you are only trolling with one at a time, it does not matter, and it is both handy and space thrifty to combine rod rack with trolling tube.
Be sure to post a picture of your final design.
**“I only have a couple of rods so I am toying with the idea of a 3 rod rack making the front tube angled forward to use as a troller.”
**
**There are quite a few tubers and tooners who have rigged their rod racks with a forward slanting tube on the front to hold rods while trolling, bottom bouncing or soaking bait. **
How do you do this trolling from a float tube? Can you get up to trolling speed and stay there with fins only? Most of the cranks we use down South require at least 1 knot or so before they shake, rattle and roll. Unless you are retrieving line at the same time as propelling yourself to get the action required. Rainbows down here like fast trolls with spinners, spoons and some cranks…
Thanks,
Pon
I have mine rigged on both sides and adjusted so that they angle slightly out and at a lower angle over the water…just right for walleye drifting or bait dragging. With both of them thus angled, it keeps the two lines further apart when I am using both.
But, if you are only trolling with one at a time, it does not matter, and it is both handy and space thrifty to combine rod rack with trolling tube.
Be sure to post a picture of your final design.
Hey, trolling is easy in my tube with this baby attached.
[inline “TUBING MOTOR.jpg”]
**Actually, any time you are moving backward, with a line out the back, you are trolling. Maybe not at what some folks would consider to be trolling speed, but trolling. **
I did not claim that I trolled. I made reference to tubers and TOONERS who did…and many tooners install electrics on their toons to troll.
That being said, I do often “slow troll” with flies or walleye rigs that you move at “paint drying speed”. I can manage that from my tube. But, I do have a tough time towing a water skier.