ODC 420L...Review & Pimpin' Pics

[TubeDude]

[cool][#0000ff]We have had a few posts and inquiries recently on the Creek Company ODC 420L. It is the lighter version of the popular heavier model but nobody has really posted a definitive review of what makes it lighter and whether or not it is REALLY a good deal at some of the great prices that are being offered.[/#0000ff]
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[#0000ff]Utah BFTer Orvis1 just bought one of them and brought it over for some help in getting it tricked out with PVC. I gave it a good once over and took a bunch of pics as I prettied it up. Hope this helps those who have either bought one or are considering it.[/#0000ff]
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[#0000ff]1. Size: Bigger than a FC4. Pretty close in size to my Fat Cat when side by side. A longer nose than the FC4 but slightly shorter than the Fat Cat.[/#0000ff]
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[#0000ff]2. Cover: A lighter weight nylon, with flimsy zippers. Likely to be some zipper failure after a period of use...especially if you cram too much in the pockets. No protective PVC coating on the bottom of the air chambers. Reduces weight but increases potential for leaks from pulling tube across terrain or setting down on sharp points. As long as the owner is careful it is a good tradeoff if the tube is being used for backpacking. [/#0000ff]
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[#0000ff]3. Air bladders (2): A fairly thick guage opaque PVC bladder...heat welded seams. They look a lot studier than the "kiddie toy" vinyl bladders in some tubes. Modern heat welding techniques are much better than in the past.[/#0000ff]
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[#0000ff]4. Valves: Two part Boston Valves. They can be touchy to seat properly and can lose air if not seated right before launching. Also, the valves are inside the main pockets. Although they are well covered, they are hard to get to and can reduce pocket space.[/#0000ff]
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[#0000ff]5. Apron: Mesh, with velcro straps and pads for attaching to D rings at the rear and velcro patches on top of the tube at the front. Better than the "modern" aprons on Outcast products but still wimpy.[/#0000ff]
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[#0000ff]6. Pockets: The large main pocket is actually divided up into several pockets. The main pocket is large enough for two or three 5" X 9" compartmented tackle boxes...but nothing larger. There are two zippered pockets on the front and back of the main pocket. These are large enough to handle a 4 amp/hr battery but nothing bigger. Good for holding a drink, bait container, etc. Then there are two thin zippered pockets on the outside of each main pocket. Okay for fly tanglers, for fly boxes, leaders, etc., but not practical for lure chuckers. Again, the zippers are very light weight nylon material that will surely not hold up to heavy use over time.[/#0000ff]
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[#0000ff]7. Seats: Rigid foam bottom and back. Should provide a high ride with at least decent comfort factor. As always, adjustment is vital.[/#0000ff]
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[#0000ff]BOTTOM LINE: These are excellent value tubes for newbie tubers or those who need the best they can buy on a budget. There are some sacrifices in the quality and durability of materials but overall the size, features and load capacity of the tube makes it well worth the money...and especially with some of the smokin' deals online.[/#0000ff]
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[#0000ff]Here are some pictures of the latest concepts in tube trickin'. Notice the incorporation of a transducer mount on the rod rack. This saves having to add a wood block to secure the sonar mount and transducer.[/#0000ff]
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[#0000ff]Also proud of the combo rod utility rack, tool rack and net holder for the opposite side of the tube. [/#0000ff]
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[mytyt]

I have one of the regular models and it works ok for myself. I was wondering about removing (cutting out) the dividers in the pockets and making them larger. Do you think this would work and would it be ok?
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[TubeDude]

[cool][#0000ff]That will work fine, if you need a larger pocket. I have done that on a couple of tubes in the past. Just be sure to use a sharp knife or scissors and leave a little bit on the inside...don't cut into the seam.[/#0000ff]
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[#0000ff]Float tubes were originally designed mainly for flyfishing and some of the manufacturers still ignore that fact that lots of bassers and other anglers want bigger pockets for larger lure boxes.[/#0000ff]
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[h82sink]

I've enjoyed watching the evolution of the pvc rod/accessory racks. I noticed in this one you've utilized (I'll assume) stainless screws in lieu of pvc cement. Is that to allow for changing as ideas come, or do you find that method to be more long lasting? I have my ODC420 now and the majority of my PVC pieces and parts, so I'm hoping this weekend (between taking my son out for junior turkey opening weekend and a junior pheasant hunt) to get this thing assembled and water worthy. I've already inflated the tube and have test "floated" in a neighbors pool and I really like the "ride". Getting as giddy as a teen on prom night now...
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[TubeDude]

[cool][#0000ff]Most of my earlier PVC designs were glued with the clear PVC cement. I still have some of them. But, in recent times I have begun using a single 1/2" machine screw to hold the joints together for both reasons you mentioned. First, it does allow for modification to new designs, when needed. Second, it does make a stronger connection, especially on joints that have stress or flex. PVC is tough but not indestructible. And the glue will crack and separate when flexed too much. [/#0000ff]
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[#0000ff]For some of my PVC contrivances...like the tube carts, etc...I both glue and screw the joints for extra strength. [/#0000ff]
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[#0000ff]Good luck with the new toy. Hope Mama Nature serves up some good weather and you can go afloat soon. Let us know how you do and send us some pics of your creations.[/#0000ff]
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[albinotrout]

Looks pretty good. The only concern I would have is the pliers hanging down below the rack where they could possibly nick/puncture the material.
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[TubeDude]

[cool][#0000ff]Gee, you sure are sensitive about punctures. You'd think maybe you had a cover problem or something.[/#0000ff]
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[#0000ff]The points of the pliers remain well away from the tube surface. And, even if they didn't it would take a forcible effort to push them into the tube enough to poke a hole.[/#0000ff]
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[albinotrout]

Well after dealing with a tear this last fall, I can be a little jumpy about it. Good to know that there is distance between pliers and tube.
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[jeffcpr]

This is the same tube i hope to get soon maybe for fathers day hint hint oh wait my wife is not on this site. I like the add ons done very well nice ride tubedude
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[ydoc]

[quote TubeDude][cool][#0000ff]We have had a few posts and inquiries recently on the Creek Company ODC 420L.

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[#0000ff]Here are some pictures of the latest concepts in tube trickin'. Notice the incorporation of a transducer mount on the rod rack. This saves having to add a wood block to secure the sonar mount and transducer.[/#0000ff]
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[#0000ff]Also proud of the combo rod utility rack, tool rack and net holder for the opposite side of the tube. [/#0000ff][/quote]

TD, thank you soooo much for the pics and details. As you know, I recently bought the "regular" ODC420, so everything you did to THIS tube, will work on mine! I can't begin to tell you how much having everything on this ONE thread!!
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[albinotrout]

[quote jeffcpr]I repair fishing rod and custom wrap as well [/quote]

I may have to get with you, I have a fly rod that needs the reel seat repaired (glued)
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[TubeDude]

[quote albinotrout][ I have a fly rod that needs the reel seat repaired (glued)[/quote]

[cool][#0000ff]Hey Kevin, I also do repairs and custom wrapping. I have the rod builders' epoxy that will fix your reel handle right up. You know where I live.[/#0000ff]
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[orvis1]

I feel like I should say ...... Thanks Tubedude for pimping my toon... (kind of like pimp my ride on MTV)


Looking forward to taking it out for a spin Saturday afternoon!
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[TubeDude]

[cool][#0000ff]Glad to help.[/#0000ff]
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[#0000ff]You're on your own with the fishies. But I think you can handle that part of it just fine.[/#0000ff]
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[albinotrout]

Great, i will bring it down. I won't be able to get there for a coupl;e of weeks. I will be in Oakland all next week due to work.
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