04-17-2014, 05:33 PM
[quote MotoBoat]Very interesting, There is a serious amount of time consuming alterations in your pictures. This is exactly what I am looking for. Modifications that worked!
And yes, you caught the paragraph I wrote a couple responses ago, it read: "I am leaning toward the 2 shim, correct seam orientation. In hopes that when I do get the tube on the water, the plywood or other material is not needed under the seat".
I cannot tell how the various plastic seats are bungee tied or fixed in some other fashion?
[#0000FF]I used to carefully bungee the seat to the backrest on the tube. Now I just drop it in position as I am ready to launch and it seems to locate its best position once you are afloat. That being said, It may take some adjustments on the backrest strap to get it to hold your seat insert at the desired angle. Leaning too far back all day can be a bad thing. Comfy at first but tiring by day's end.[/#0000FF]
Are all pictures of foam seat blocks in the seat pocket, under the various plastic seat options?
[#0000FF]Some are with inflatable seats. Most are with foam blocks. The only ones I had to use shims on were the inflated seats on the red H3.[/#0000FF]
It seems, a flat, rigid sheet of (plastic cutting board, or waterproofed plywood would be needed on top of the seat foam and placed inside the seat pocket together.
Then, the plastic seat bottom, placed on top of the seat pocket material. Could not distort the top side of the seat foam blocks?
[#0000FF]The combination of water supporting the foam from underneath, and the even disbursement of body weight by the seat insert almost makes the addition of a rigid sheet of plexiglass or wood unnecessary. But that is something you can only determine after you get it on the water and try it both ways.[/#0000FF]
Some if not most plastic, outdoor chairs have a network/maze of thin walled, vertical support. That would dig into the seat foam. Or, is it best to remove that underside support at the same time as the legs? I just went out and looked at the underside of three different plastic chairs. It is best to use the underside framework, as part of the rigid, anti "taco" plan?
[#0000FF]Indeed, every type of lawn chair has a different underseat configuration. I am attaching two pictures. One shows the plastic vanes cut and ground down to the seat bottom. The other shows the vanes left in place, but ground to the same basic level. On both you will notice I have left the front edge slightly longer to contribute to a little backward tilt. Helps keep you in the
dle.[/#0000FF]
Your email arrived, just after hanging up the phone with Homer-d-poe. The thickest piece of plexiglass they carry is 1/4", and the smallest piece I could buy is 24" x 36". Costing $50. I would need to double the 1/4" thickness.
Plus, the cutting board is a close enough option to the structural properties, weight, and waterproof as plexyglass. At a significant savings.
I agree, with the addition of the outdoor seat options, the plexyglass is out
[#0000FF][/#0000FF].[/quote]
[#0000FF]One final suggestion. Measure the exact inside diameter of your seat area...and take a tape with you when checking chairs. Most will be just about right but some are too wide and will not work well. Also, it is good to sit in one and do some rock and roll...to make sure the contour will be butt-friendly. We are all built differently and we each have our own ideas about what is comfortable.[/#0000FF]
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And yes, you caught the paragraph I wrote a couple responses ago, it read: "I am leaning toward the 2 shim, correct seam orientation. In hopes that when I do get the tube on the water, the plywood or other material is not needed under the seat".
I cannot tell how the various plastic seats are bungee tied or fixed in some other fashion?
[#0000FF]I used to carefully bungee the seat to the backrest on the tube. Now I just drop it in position as I am ready to launch and it seems to locate its best position once you are afloat. That being said, It may take some adjustments on the backrest strap to get it to hold your seat insert at the desired angle. Leaning too far back all day can be a bad thing. Comfy at first but tiring by day's end.[/#0000FF]
Are all pictures of foam seat blocks in the seat pocket, under the various plastic seat options?
[#0000FF]Some are with inflatable seats. Most are with foam blocks. The only ones I had to use shims on were the inflated seats on the red H3.[/#0000FF]
It seems, a flat, rigid sheet of (plastic cutting board, or waterproofed plywood would be needed on top of the seat foam and placed inside the seat pocket together.
Then, the plastic seat bottom, placed on top of the seat pocket material. Could not distort the top side of the seat foam blocks?
[#0000FF]The combination of water supporting the foam from underneath, and the even disbursement of body weight by the seat insert almost makes the addition of a rigid sheet of plexiglass or wood unnecessary. But that is something you can only determine after you get it on the water and try it both ways.[/#0000FF]
Some if not most plastic, outdoor chairs have a network/maze of thin walled, vertical support. That would dig into the seat foam. Or, is it best to remove that underside support at the same time as the legs? I just went out and looked at the underside of three different plastic chairs. It is best to use the underside framework, as part of the rigid, anti "taco" plan?
[#0000FF]Indeed, every type of lawn chair has a different underseat configuration. I am attaching two pictures. One shows the plastic vanes cut and ground down to the seat bottom. The other shows the vanes left in place, but ground to the same basic level. On both you will notice I have left the front edge slightly longer to contribute to a little backward tilt. Helps keep you in the
dle.[/#0000FF]Your email arrived, just after hanging up the phone with Homer-d-poe. The thickest piece of plexiglass they carry is 1/4", and the smallest piece I could buy is 24" x 36". Costing $50. I would need to double the 1/4" thickness.
Plus, the cutting board is a close enough option to the structural properties, weight, and waterproof as plexyglass. At a significant savings.
I agree, with the addition of the outdoor seat options, the plexyglass is out
[#0000FF][/#0000FF].[/quote]
[#0000FF]One final suggestion. Measure the exact inside diameter of your seat area...and take a tape with you when checking chairs. Most will be just about right but some are too wide and will not work well. Also, it is good to sit in one and do some rock and roll...to make sure the contour will be butt-friendly. We are all built differently and we each have our own ideas about what is comfortable.[/#0000FF]
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