10-27-2011, 01:29 AM
[cool][#0000ff]You are right to be concerned about the potential for premature wear and/or failure. But I think I can safely assure you that with the craft you are looking at there is really not much to fear. Kinda like your mom telling you not to run with scissors or you will put your eye out. Yeah, it can happen, but not likely.[/#0000ff]
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[#0000ff]Frames: Don't sweat the steel frame. Rust? Yeah, it can happen, but not likely on a well made powder coated frame. At least for fresh water use. Upgrading to aluminum or stainless will only raise the price with no great difference at the level of use you foresee. If you get a ding on your frame or drill a hole in it you simply need to cover it with some kind of sealer or rustproofing and go fishing.[/#0000ff]
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[#0000ff]BLADDERS: There is far too much hype on this subject. Most of it from those who sell one or the other and try to knock the competition to sell their own product. It is far more important to have a good thick wall on the bladder than whether or not it is urethane or PVC/vinyl. Both will get holes if you puncture them. And both will sustain damage if you treat them wrong...like overinflation. I have been doing this a long time and I do not know of anybody who has drowned from having one kind or the other. But I know of "incidents" involving both that were the fault of the angler and not the bladder. Check your basic chemistry. Most folks who tout one or the other cannot tell you the molecular difference between the materials or the major difference in properties under different conditions of heat, cold or stress. A good vinyl bladder should theoretically last as long as a urethane one. Just take good care of it.[/#0000ff]
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[#0000ff]Oars: Again, a personal thing...based upon the users' size, strength, rowing ability and style of rowing and fishing. Not a one size fits all. Basic physics tells us that the longer the lever the more force you can exert at the end of it...the oar blade. But oars can also be too long and get in the way more when not in use. Takes a balance. More importantly is how you have them set up to fit your size and grip. Usually takes some adjustment before you can just grab and row without conscious thought. That being said, there are aftermarket upgrades for most toons that are lighter, stronger and have more efficient blades.[/#0000ff]
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[#0000ff]VALVES: The best valves are the Halkey Roberts and summit valves...the ones that require a fitting to attach to your pump to activate the valve. Those are standard on most higher end Outcast craft and on Dave Scadden's designs. The valves on Creek Company...including the ODC 420 tubes...are notorious for being difficult to properly seat. Ditto for the Outcast Fish Cat tubes. I have not personally inspected the valves on the Colorado for at least a couple of years. But the most recent reports from those who use them is that they seem to be working okay.[/#0000ff]
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[#0000ff]SEAMS: Plain sewn seam construction is probably the weakest and with the greatest potential for stress and wear. Welded seams are usually a combo of sewn and welded. Much stronger but not indestructible. You can wear them out by dragging on hard surfaces. Some models incorporate welded on "skid pads" over the bottom seams. Again, not indestructible but holds up better under abuse.[/#0000ff]
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[#0000ff]MOTOR: As a general rule you are better to buy a craft that already has a built in platform and motor mount...with plenty of adjustability to move your center of gravity forward or backward. If you buy a shorter and lighter craft...not intended for taking a heavy motor and battery...you will likely get into some balance and performance issues. Even if a toon is rated for at least 500 pounds that does not mean you can add an extra hundred pounds at the rear without compromising the ride. Toons work best when everything is properly balanced and you can skim across the water on the level. If your stern is pulled down in the water and your nose rides high you will not have as much fun.[/#0000ff]
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[#0000ff][/#0000ff]
[#0000ff]Frames: Don't sweat the steel frame. Rust? Yeah, it can happen, but not likely on a well made powder coated frame. At least for fresh water use. Upgrading to aluminum or stainless will only raise the price with no great difference at the level of use you foresee. If you get a ding on your frame or drill a hole in it you simply need to cover it with some kind of sealer or rustproofing and go fishing.[/#0000ff]
[#0000ff][/#0000ff]
[#0000ff]BLADDERS: There is far too much hype on this subject. Most of it from those who sell one or the other and try to knock the competition to sell their own product. It is far more important to have a good thick wall on the bladder than whether or not it is urethane or PVC/vinyl. Both will get holes if you puncture them. And both will sustain damage if you treat them wrong...like overinflation. I have been doing this a long time and I do not know of anybody who has drowned from having one kind or the other. But I know of "incidents" involving both that were the fault of the angler and not the bladder. Check your basic chemistry. Most folks who tout one or the other cannot tell you the molecular difference between the materials or the major difference in properties under different conditions of heat, cold or stress. A good vinyl bladder should theoretically last as long as a urethane one. Just take good care of it.[/#0000ff]
[#0000ff][/#0000ff]
[#0000ff]Oars: Again, a personal thing...based upon the users' size, strength, rowing ability and style of rowing and fishing. Not a one size fits all. Basic physics tells us that the longer the lever the more force you can exert at the end of it...the oar blade. But oars can also be too long and get in the way more when not in use. Takes a balance. More importantly is how you have them set up to fit your size and grip. Usually takes some adjustment before you can just grab and row without conscious thought. That being said, there are aftermarket upgrades for most toons that are lighter, stronger and have more efficient blades.[/#0000ff]
[#0000ff][/#0000ff]
[#0000ff]VALVES: The best valves are the Halkey Roberts and summit valves...the ones that require a fitting to attach to your pump to activate the valve. Those are standard on most higher end Outcast craft and on Dave Scadden's designs. The valves on Creek Company...including the ODC 420 tubes...are notorious for being difficult to properly seat. Ditto for the Outcast Fish Cat tubes. I have not personally inspected the valves on the Colorado for at least a couple of years. But the most recent reports from those who use them is that they seem to be working okay.[/#0000ff]
[#0000ff][/#0000ff]
[#0000ff]SEAMS: Plain sewn seam construction is probably the weakest and with the greatest potential for stress and wear. Welded seams are usually a combo of sewn and welded. Much stronger but not indestructible. You can wear them out by dragging on hard surfaces. Some models incorporate welded on "skid pads" over the bottom seams. Again, not indestructible but holds up better under abuse.[/#0000ff]
[#0000ff][/#0000ff]
[#0000ff]MOTOR: As a general rule you are better to buy a craft that already has a built in platform and motor mount...with plenty of adjustability to move your center of gravity forward or backward. If you buy a shorter and lighter craft...not intended for taking a heavy motor and battery...you will likely get into some balance and performance issues. Even if a toon is rated for at least 500 pounds that does not mean you can add an extra hundred pounds at the rear without compromising the ride. Toons work best when everything is properly balanced and you can skim across the water on the level. If your stern is pulled down in the water and your nose rides high you will not have as much fun.[/#0000ff]
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