07-22-2011, 12:36 PM
You got some good info there in regards to drag, and i'm going to fine tune it a bit to help a bit more.
To eliminate confusion, the knob that controls the spool's rotation is technically called a "brake." As in, stops the spool. I only mention this because, if you're thumbing through an owners manual and get to the reel's parts description, you won't get
about what is what.
One thing to remember about bait casters is, you are limited to lures with a tad more weight, versus a spinning reel. If you try to cast a very light lure with a bait caster, no matter how loose the break is, you're going to have problems. If your reel is spooled with braid, you might have a 20 dollar problem if you can't get the back lash out. The way I set the brake on a reel is simple. I tie on the lure and hold it up off the ground. I click the free spool button on the reel, and if it drops to the ground rapidly, it's set too loose. Give the break a turn. Reel it up and try again. The idea is to get the break set where a gentle wiggle of the rod keeps the lure moving towards the ground at a controled speed, not wide open. If it falls with out a wiggle of the rod, it's too loose. If you're having to whip the hell out of it to get the lure to move, it's too tight. Use that logic, and you'll find you're sweet spot. Just note, when you use the break, you will not get the distance casting as someone that is more skilled and does not require the use of the break. So, don't be disappointed with your initial performance, it'll get better with experiance. As you get more comfortable, ease the break off a bit. Remember, as you do this, you're thumb becomes the speed control.
The only other thing i'll touch on is the actual drag settings. The rule of thumb, like Dave mentioned, is to keep your drag set below the test of the line you're using. There are things to consider in this area, that change with the type of fish you are targeting. Fish that are incredibly fast, acrobatic, or have very soft mouths will require a lighter drag setting. The offset to that is having a rod with a slow action, which will absorb the shock with a higher drag setting. An example of a slow action rod is an ugly stick made by Shakespear. Probably the most famous and widely used fishing rod in the world. They make fast action rods, but the standard version has a very limber tip.
I set my drag using "feel." But, I know my equipment, and I can actually sense when a rod or the line has had enough, or is getting close. That is something aquired with experiance, and I suspect most veteran anglers use the same tactic. After you break a few lines and such, you'll aquire that same sense about your gear. Nothing teaches better than trial and error. Write than down. [cool]
[signature]
To eliminate confusion, the knob that controls the spool's rotation is technically called a "brake." As in, stops the spool. I only mention this because, if you're thumbing through an owners manual and get to the reel's parts description, you won't get
about what is what. One thing to remember about bait casters is, you are limited to lures with a tad more weight, versus a spinning reel. If you try to cast a very light lure with a bait caster, no matter how loose the break is, you're going to have problems. If your reel is spooled with braid, you might have a 20 dollar problem if you can't get the back lash out. The way I set the brake on a reel is simple. I tie on the lure and hold it up off the ground. I click the free spool button on the reel, and if it drops to the ground rapidly, it's set too loose. Give the break a turn. Reel it up and try again. The idea is to get the break set where a gentle wiggle of the rod keeps the lure moving towards the ground at a controled speed, not wide open. If it falls with out a wiggle of the rod, it's too loose. If you're having to whip the hell out of it to get the lure to move, it's too tight. Use that logic, and you'll find you're sweet spot. Just note, when you use the break, you will not get the distance casting as someone that is more skilled and does not require the use of the break. So, don't be disappointed with your initial performance, it'll get better with experiance. As you get more comfortable, ease the break off a bit. Remember, as you do this, you're thumb becomes the speed control.
The only other thing i'll touch on is the actual drag settings. The rule of thumb, like Dave mentioned, is to keep your drag set below the test of the line you're using. There are things to consider in this area, that change with the type of fish you are targeting. Fish that are incredibly fast, acrobatic, or have very soft mouths will require a lighter drag setting. The offset to that is having a rod with a slow action, which will absorb the shock with a higher drag setting. An example of a slow action rod is an ugly stick made by Shakespear. Probably the most famous and widely used fishing rod in the world. They make fast action rods, but the standard version has a very limber tip.
I set my drag using "feel." But, I know my equipment, and I can actually sense when a rod or the line has had enough, or is getting close. That is something aquired with experiance, and I suspect most veteran anglers use the same tactic. After you break a few lines and such, you'll aquire that same sense about your gear. Nothing teaches better than trial and error. Write than down. [cool]
[signature]