08-28-2003, 10:06 PM
there sure is , i only know a few . before i do any preps i pressure wash the engin at the car wash . i also run the engin for about a minute or two during the wax cycle and let the wax solution go thru the warer intake on the engine , this help to keep any scale from building up during the winter months and keeps the impellor from dry-rotting .
i drain and replace the lower gear unit of all the old lube and replace it with new .
the engin fog for storage can be bought at the auto parts store , so can stay-bul for the fule . follow the directions ( put the stay-bul gas treatment in before you go to the car wash , this protects your float chamber and lines from varnish build up as well )
the electronics are the trickey thing , i always replaced the points at the end of the year , dabed a drop of non detergent oil on the contacts to prevent corosion or stuck points , sand the magnedo tips and the magnets on the flywheel , a light film of oil there too , no surface rust build up in the spring . any clips , like for the kill switch get the same treatment .
i replace the spark plugs during the engine fogging process , oil the threads as well . depending on the type of spark plug wires ( any other wires too ) i coat them with whatever the manufacturer sugests to prevent them from dring out and cracking .
i only let the engine run a minute when fogging , no water , i want any left over water out of the engine , ice is the most destructive thing an engine can be exposed to during storage .
i use no-ox from any hardware or electrical supply store on the carb levers . this keeps them free from scale build up and sticking in the spring .
a cotton or hemp bag ( old potato sack or pillow case ) works great for a cover , it breathes , plastic bags draw in moist air and condensation , that's not good . store it in a dry place and your all set for the spring .
hope it helps , my moter still works , it's a 1942 scott-atwater .
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i drain and replace the lower gear unit of all the old lube and replace it with new .
the engin fog for storage can be bought at the auto parts store , so can stay-bul for the fule . follow the directions ( put the stay-bul gas treatment in before you go to the car wash , this protects your float chamber and lines from varnish build up as well )
the electronics are the trickey thing , i always replaced the points at the end of the year , dabed a drop of non detergent oil on the contacts to prevent corosion or stuck points , sand the magnedo tips and the magnets on the flywheel , a light film of oil there too , no surface rust build up in the spring . any clips , like for the kill switch get the same treatment .
i replace the spark plugs during the engine fogging process , oil the threads as well . depending on the type of spark plug wires ( any other wires too ) i coat them with whatever the manufacturer sugests to prevent them from dring out and cracking .
i only let the engine run a minute when fogging , no water , i want any left over water out of the engine , ice is the most destructive thing an engine can be exposed to during storage .
i use no-ox from any hardware or electrical supply store on the carb levers . this keeps them free from scale build up and sticking in the spring .
a cotton or hemp bag ( old potato sack or pillow case ) works great for a cover , it breathes , plastic bags draw in moist air and condensation , that's not good . store it in a dry place and your all set for the spring .
hope it helps , my moter still works , it's a 1942 scott-atwater .
[signature]