08-24-2003, 10:09 PM
[#808000]I use a 9ft #7wt Penn Gold medal fly rod with a matching Penn 1.5 salt water fly reel for all my steelheading. ![[Image: K3495CustomImage0595391.jpg]](http://web.ecomplanet.com/K3495/ServerContent/MyCustomImages/K3495CustomImage0595391.jpg)
[size 3]For leaders I use a 2x 8lb Fenwick Profile [/size][size 3]leader.![[Image: K3495CustomImage0584844.jpg]](http://web.ecomplanet.com/K3495/ServerContent/MyCustomImages/K3495CustomImage0584844.jpg)
[/size][/#808000][size 1]
[/size][#808000][size 3]Although it is a completely different setup than you, I am still only using 8lb test at the fly and I have no trouble landing large steelhead. I have even landed large 20 to 30lb chinooks using this setup. Usually the only time I lose a fish is if he makes it to cover or cuts me off on some object underwater. So I would have to ask you some questions. Where is your line breaking? Is it breaking at the fly, is it your knot? What type of knot are you using? Or is the fish snapping you off on sharp rocks or other underwater debris? If the fish is actually snapping your line, this might sound silly, but your drag might be set too tight. If you have the room and there is not a lot of debris or cover for him to head for, just loosen your drag and let him run. Steelies will usually make 5 or 6 good runs. The best way to tier him is not to keep him on a short leash with a tight drag. He will tier much more quickly the more you let him run and burn off his energy. If there is a lot of cover and debris in the area you will have to go up to a heavier lb test. That is all I can suggest right now without knowing all the rest of the facts.[/size][/#808000][size 1] [/size]
[#808000]Fluorocarbon is an excelent choice for whenever a more abrasion resistant line is needed or at times when fish are being tippet shy. On a recent trip steelheading and salmon fishing I was given some samples of that new Frogs Hair fluorocarbon to put to the test. I tried their Stiff butt tapered leaders [/#808000][size 1]
[/size][#808000][size 3]and their new fluorocarbon tippet material [/size][/#808000]
[size 1]
[/size][#808000][size 3]I absolutely loved it. It was extremely abrasion resistant, had very little stretch and turned over very well. I have been considering going to it exclusively if I can get it at wholesale.[/size][/#808000]
[#808000]The knot I would use would be the Uni-knot. It it the best holding knot I know of and it is quite easy to tie. I use it about 90% of the time for all fishing situations. I will try and find an illistration of it and post it on the board for you. For your lead line, you might want to try some of the new high breed flurocarbon lines some companies have just started putting out. I will also try to find you some information on those as well.[/#808000]
[#808000]Your problem sounds like it is mostly abrasion. Those dam cinder blocks and gabian stone are just like a file on your line. I would forget about mono and definately go with the fluorocarbon. Another thing you might want to try is a baitcast reel with a braided line like spiderwire and a fluorocarbon leader.
[size 3][/size]
[size 3]Do yourself a favor and start practicing the Uni-knot now before you get out on the water. I know it looks simple but there is a bit of a technique to it. The trick is make sure you make your loop big enough to work with and pinch the line between thumb and forefinger where the bites intersect. The thing I like most about the Uni-Knot is that it is so versatile. I love the fact that you can fish it with an open loop. It gives your nymphs a much more natural action than if your tippet is sinched up tight to the eye of the hook. It can also be used to snell a steelhead hook. In fact, it's the best snell there is. Once you start using the Uni- Knot, the Clinch and improved Clinch will soon be only a memory.[/size][/#808000][size 1] [/size]
[signature]
[size 3]For leaders I use a 2x 8lb Fenwick Profile [/size][size 3]leader.
[/size][/#808000][size 1] [/size][#808000][size 3]Although it is a completely different setup than you, I am still only using 8lb test at the fly and I have no trouble landing large steelhead. I have even landed large 20 to 30lb chinooks using this setup. Usually the only time I lose a fish is if he makes it to cover or cuts me off on some object underwater. So I would have to ask you some questions. Where is your line breaking? Is it breaking at the fly, is it your knot? What type of knot are you using? Or is the fish snapping you off on sharp rocks or other underwater debris? If the fish is actually snapping your line, this might sound silly, but your drag might be set too tight. If you have the room and there is not a lot of debris or cover for him to head for, just loosen your drag and let him run. Steelies will usually make 5 or 6 good runs. The best way to tier him is not to keep him on a short leash with a tight drag. He will tier much more quickly the more you let him run and burn off his energy. If there is a lot of cover and debris in the area you will have to go up to a heavier lb test. That is all I can suggest right now without knowing all the rest of the facts.[/size][/#808000][size 1] [/size]
[#808000]Fluorocarbon is an excelent choice for whenever a more abrasion resistant line is needed or at times when fish are being tippet shy. On a recent trip steelheading and salmon fishing I was given some samples of that new Frogs Hair fluorocarbon to put to the test. I tried their Stiff butt tapered leaders [/#808000][size 1]
[/size][#808000][size 3]and their new fluorocarbon tippet material [/size][/#808000]
[size 1]
[/size][#808000][size 3]I absolutely loved it. It was extremely abrasion resistant, had very little stretch and turned over very well. I have been considering going to it exclusively if I can get it at wholesale.[/size][/#808000]
[#808000]The knot I would use would be the Uni-knot. It it the best holding knot I know of and it is quite easy to tie. I use it about 90% of the time for all fishing situations. I will try and find an illistration of it and post it on the board for you. For your lead line, you might want to try some of the new high breed flurocarbon lines some companies have just started putting out. I will also try to find you some information on those as well.[/#808000]
[#808000]Your problem sounds like it is mostly abrasion. Those dam cinder blocks and gabian stone are just like a file on your line. I would forget about mono and definately go with the fluorocarbon. Another thing you might want to try is a baitcast reel with a braided line like spiderwire and a fluorocarbon leader.
[size 3][/size]
[size 3]Do yourself a favor and start practicing the Uni-knot now before you get out on the water. I know it looks simple but there is a bit of a technique to it. The trick is make sure you make your loop big enough to work with and pinch the line between thumb and forefinger where the bites intersect. The thing I like most about the Uni-Knot is that it is so versatile. I love the fact that you can fish it with an open loop. It gives your nymphs a much more natural action than if your tippet is sinched up tight to the eye of the hook. It can also be used to snell a steelhead hook. In fact, it's the best snell there is. Once you start using the Uni- Knot, the Clinch and improved Clinch will soon be only a memory.[/size][/#808000][size 1] [/size]
[signature]