05-04-2010, 05:35 PM
[cool][#0000ff]My motor is an Endura 30.[/#0000ff]
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[#0000ff]The feet are schedule 20 PVC, heated and then flattened and then rounded on the tips with a dremel sanding drum.[/#0000ff]
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[#0000ff]You can use anything that will fit under the seat. Using a plate for the battery is fine too. I just have a plastic box for mine. I will have more pictures in a couple of days.[/#0000ff]
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[#0000ff]The other thing about running the PVC bars horizontally, at the level of the top of the tube, is that you can actually build a small deck on top of those for additional storage...or a big Rubbermaid container or whatever. Might even hold the BBQ and entertainment center. The main concern is the free operation of the trolling motor and being able to tilt it forward when needed.[/#0000ff]
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[#0000ff]By the way, did you notice that I made an extension handle of lightweight schedule 20 PVC? The extension handle I bought was too heavy. It would pull the control to one side and start the propeller going. Not good. I made the PVC control handle in a zig zag. When on 0 the handle rests on my right shoulder. When on 5 it rests on my left shoulder. Anywhere in between is on either side of my neck. I started by cutting about 6 inches down on one side of a piece of 1" schedule 20 PVC. After heating it until softened I forced it down over the end of the motor control handle and pressed the top side flat...form fitting. It is easy to slide on and off and stays firmly in place with a hose clamp.[/#0000ff]
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[#0000ff]I have not collected any pictures of other installs. But I have seen them using everything from baling wire to 2X4 frames. Only a few with PVC or conduit. The concept is always the same...get a piece of wood or metal back at the point of the tube to mount the motor and put a battery behind the seat. [/#0000ff]
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[#0000ff]Now that I have made the mental commitment to POWER I will be running a lot of experiments.[/#0000ff]
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[#0000ff]The feet are schedule 20 PVC, heated and then flattened and then rounded on the tips with a dremel sanding drum.[/#0000ff]
[#0000ff][/#0000ff]
[#0000ff]You can use anything that will fit under the seat. Using a plate for the battery is fine too. I just have a plastic box for mine. I will have more pictures in a couple of days.[/#0000ff]
[#0000ff][/#0000ff]
[#0000ff]The other thing about running the PVC bars horizontally, at the level of the top of the tube, is that you can actually build a small deck on top of those for additional storage...or a big Rubbermaid container or whatever. Might even hold the BBQ and entertainment center. The main concern is the free operation of the trolling motor and being able to tilt it forward when needed.[/#0000ff]
[#0000ff][/#0000ff]
[#0000ff]By the way, did you notice that I made an extension handle of lightweight schedule 20 PVC? The extension handle I bought was too heavy. It would pull the control to one side and start the propeller going. Not good. I made the PVC control handle in a zig zag. When on 0 the handle rests on my right shoulder. When on 5 it rests on my left shoulder. Anywhere in between is on either side of my neck. I started by cutting about 6 inches down on one side of a piece of 1" schedule 20 PVC. After heating it until softened I forced it down over the end of the motor control handle and pressed the top side flat...form fitting. It is easy to slide on and off and stays firmly in place with a hose clamp.[/#0000ff]
[#0000ff][/#0000ff]
[#0000ff]I have not collected any pictures of other installs. But I have seen them using everything from baling wire to 2X4 frames. Only a few with PVC or conduit. The concept is always the same...get a piece of wood or metal back at the point of the tube to mount the motor and put a battery behind the seat. [/#0000ff]
[#0000ff][/#0000ff]
[#0000ff]Now that I have made the mental commitment to POWER I will be running a lot of experiments.[/#0000ff]
[signature]