08-17-2007, 02:54 PM
[black][size 3]You've gotten some pretty good advice from the others, but, let me throw in my 1/2 O'scent. [/size][/black]
[black][size 3][/size][/black]
[black][size 3]You don't need to spend too much money on a servicible rod. [/size][/black]
[black][size 3][/size][/black]
[black][size 3]Shakespeare Ugly Stick - buy one. I own 9 of them in different lengths and powers. They are, as the advertisements say, "nearly indestructible" - (i.e. your reel will probably melt down or your line will break before the rod fails).[/size][/black]
[black][size 3][/size][/black]
[black][size 3]And, as the owner of about 100 rods (from the cheapest to the most expensive ones out there), I can assure you that the main difference in the rod's fish catching capability - would be the person holding it.[/size][/black]
[black][size 3][/size][/black]
[black][size 3]However, there are a few tips to consider about the rod's construction that may help you determine which rod might be better for your situation.[/size][/black]
[black][size 3][/size][/black]
[black][size 3]If you bank/shore fish and there are little or no overhead obsticles (over hanging tree branches etc.), a longer rod can allow you to cast further. I own quite a few rods in the 9 foot + catagory. They also give you much better line control and hook setting capability at longer distances. [/size][/black]
[black][size 3][/size][/black]
[black][size 3]If you are fishing in closed quarters (with trees, tall brush, in a boat or other watercraft) a shorter rod will allow more manueverability, more precise casting, and it provides better leverage while fighting a fish.[/size][/black]
[black][size 3][/size][/black]
[black][size 3]As far as the materials that rods are made from; Fiberglass rods are the strongest, most durable and flexible, while graphite rods are the lightest and most sensitive, but are also more fragile, and in comparison to fiberglass, they are somewhat brittle. Those rods that are composites of fiberglass and graphite fall somewhere in between in regards to qualities (Ugly Sticks are composites made mostly of fiberglass).[/size][/black]
[black][size 3][/size][/black]
[black][size 3]Typically, according to conventional wisdom, here are a few useage guidlines (you will find many other opinions, based mostly on personal preference or coorporate sponsership):[/size][/black]
[black][size 3][/size][/black]
[black][size 3]Fiberglass - crankbaits, trolling, live bait presentations, circle hooks, catfishing, gently lobbing baits, and any technique that requires strength, durability and does not involve a lot of sensitivity.[/size][/black]
[black][size 3][/size][/black]
[black][size 3]Graphite - jigging, flyfishing, accurate or precise casting, and any other application that requires great sensitivity and feel.[/size][/black]
[black][size 3][/size][/black]
[black][size 3]As far as power ratings go, here is how I personally approach them: [/size][/black]
[size 3][black][/black][/size]
[black][size 3]Ultra-Light[2-4lb line, presentations less than 1/8 oz.]: Panfish, perch, small trout (smaller fish less than 2 pounds).[/size][/black]
[black][size 3]Light[4-8lb line, presentations less than 3/8 oz.]: Trout, white bass, bullheads, perch and other larger panfish (fish between 1-3 pounds).[/size][/black]
[black][size 3]Medium[8-12lb line, presentations less than 1 oz]: Catfish/Carp under 10 lbs., walleye, wipers, SMB, LMB(fish between 2-10 lbs).[/size][/black]
[black][size 3]Medium Heavy[12-25lb line, presentations less than 3 oz.]: Catfish under 30 lbs, Carp over 10 lbs, Lake Trout, Musky/pike.[/size][/black]
[size 3][black]Heavy[20-50 lb line, presentations up to 8 oz]: Catfish over 30 lbs., Salt Water or surf fishing. [/black][/size]
[black][size 3][/size][/black]
[black][size 3](DISCLAIMER: these are my own guidelines and I can guarantee that it is quite possible to catch fish outside of these guesstimates.)[/size][/black]
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[black][size 3][/size][/black]
[black][size 3]You don't need to spend too much money on a servicible rod. [/size][/black]
[black][size 3][/size][/black]
[black][size 3]Shakespeare Ugly Stick - buy one. I own 9 of them in different lengths and powers. They are, as the advertisements say, "nearly indestructible" - (i.e. your reel will probably melt down or your line will break before the rod fails).[/size][/black]
[black][size 3][/size][/black]
[black][size 3]And, as the owner of about 100 rods (from the cheapest to the most expensive ones out there), I can assure you that the main difference in the rod's fish catching capability - would be the person holding it.[/size][/black]
[black][size 3][/size][/black]
[black][size 3]However, there are a few tips to consider about the rod's construction that may help you determine which rod might be better for your situation.[/size][/black]
[black][size 3][/size][/black]
[black][size 3]If you bank/shore fish and there are little or no overhead obsticles (over hanging tree branches etc.), a longer rod can allow you to cast further. I own quite a few rods in the 9 foot + catagory. They also give you much better line control and hook setting capability at longer distances. [/size][/black]
[black][size 3][/size][/black]
[black][size 3]If you are fishing in closed quarters (with trees, tall brush, in a boat or other watercraft) a shorter rod will allow more manueverability, more precise casting, and it provides better leverage while fighting a fish.[/size][/black]
[black][size 3][/size][/black]
[black][size 3]As far as the materials that rods are made from; Fiberglass rods are the strongest, most durable and flexible, while graphite rods are the lightest and most sensitive, but are also more fragile, and in comparison to fiberglass, they are somewhat brittle. Those rods that are composites of fiberglass and graphite fall somewhere in between in regards to qualities (Ugly Sticks are composites made mostly of fiberglass).[/size][/black]
[black][size 3][/size][/black]
[black][size 3]Typically, according to conventional wisdom, here are a few useage guidlines (you will find many other opinions, based mostly on personal preference or coorporate sponsership):[/size][/black]
[black][size 3][/size][/black]
[black][size 3]Fiberglass - crankbaits, trolling, live bait presentations, circle hooks, catfishing, gently lobbing baits, and any technique that requires strength, durability and does not involve a lot of sensitivity.[/size][/black]
[black][size 3][/size][/black]
[black][size 3]Graphite - jigging, flyfishing, accurate or precise casting, and any other application that requires great sensitivity and feel.[/size][/black]
[black][size 3][/size][/black]
[black][size 3]As far as power ratings go, here is how I personally approach them: [/size][/black]
[size 3][black][/black][/size]
[black][size 3]Ultra-Light[2-4lb line, presentations less than 1/8 oz.]: Panfish, perch, small trout (smaller fish less than 2 pounds).[/size][/black]
[black][size 3]Light[4-8lb line, presentations less than 3/8 oz.]: Trout, white bass, bullheads, perch and other larger panfish (fish between 1-3 pounds).[/size][/black]
[black][size 3]Medium[8-12lb line, presentations less than 1 oz]: Catfish/Carp under 10 lbs., walleye, wipers, SMB, LMB(fish between 2-10 lbs).[/size][/black]
[black][size 3]Medium Heavy[12-25lb line, presentations less than 3 oz.]: Catfish under 30 lbs, Carp over 10 lbs, Lake Trout, Musky/pike.[/size][/black]
[size 3][black]Heavy[20-50 lb line, presentations up to 8 oz]: Catfish over 30 lbs., Salt Water or surf fishing. [/black][/size]
[black][size 3][/size][/black]
[black][size 3](DISCLAIMER: these are my own guidelines and I can guarantee that it is quite possible to catch fish outside of these guesstimates.)[/size][/black]
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