04-16-2007, 11:46 AM
[cool][#0000ff]I have never run a motorized toon, so I have no firsthand experience. But, this is a question (and discussion) that comes up frequently on the Utah board, where we have lots of tooners who have put motors on their craft...and plenty of small boaters who run electrics for trolling.[/#0000ff]
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[#0000ff]What is usually comes down to is that you have to do your shopping and batteries are like rods, reels, lines and lures. Your choice is a matter of personal preference and those who believe in one kind of battery will defend them to the death...while others say they are the worst on the market.[/#0000ff]
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[#0000ff]As you already know, the length of time you get on the water from any given battery is a function of 1. Battery amp/hours, 2. Thrust/power of your motor, and 3. Power setting at which you run the motor. [/#0000ff]
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[#0000ff]That is the basic physics stuff. If you buy a quality battery and a good motor, both of which operate the way they are supposed to, you will get exactly the performance for which they are rated.[/#0000ff]
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[#0000ff]There are also some intangibles that can result in differences in results between different toons with the same motors and batteries. First is the weather. Obviously it takes more juice to run against the wind than with it. Second is the lower surface of your toon. If you do not have your rig balanced so that it rides evenly...or if you drag a sonar transducer, fish stringer or other drag items...you will use more power than if you have a smooth balanced rig. It is surprising how much drag even some dangling straps can add to your cruising speed...and how that affects the total length of time it takes to drain your battery.[/#0000ff]
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[#0000ff]Once you get a good feel for how your system performs, in terms of total hours on the water under "normal" conditions, you can project any potential differences for days when you are using the motor either more or less. A "prudent" tooner should know when to guide his rig back toward his launch point so that he doesn't have to row back against the wind after the battery dies.[/#0000ff]
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[#0000ff]If you have a large enough toon, with ample space on the rear deck, you might consider carrying a smaller backup battery, with enough power to get you back in if the primary battery leaves you unexpectedly stranded.[/#0000ff]
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[#0000ff]In Utah, we have had some good reports on the WalMart deep cycle batteries. They are usually priced right and have good guarantees. The key thing seems to be looking carefully at the date of manufacture. Go through the whole display and pick the newest one. Watch out for those that are over a year old.[/#0000ff]
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[#0000ff]Good luck.[/#0000ff]
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[#0000ff][/#0000ff]
[#0000ff]What is usually comes down to is that you have to do your shopping and batteries are like rods, reels, lines and lures. Your choice is a matter of personal preference and those who believe in one kind of battery will defend them to the death...while others say they are the worst on the market.[/#0000ff]
[#0000ff][/#0000ff]
[#0000ff]As you already know, the length of time you get on the water from any given battery is a function of 1. Battery amp/hours, 2. Thrust/power of your motor, and 3. Power setting at which you run the motor. [/#0000ff]
[#0000ff][/#0000ff]
[#0000ff]That is the basic physics stuff. If you buy a quality battery and a good motor, both of which operate the way they are supposed to, you will get exactly the performance for which they are rated.[/#0000ff]
[#0000ff][/#0000ff]
[#0000ff]There are also some intangibles that can result in differences in results between different toons with the same motors and batteries. First is the weather. Obviously it takes more juice to run against the wind than with it. Second is the lower surface of your toon. If you do not have your rig balanced so that it rides evenly...or if you drag a sonar transducer, fish stringer or other drag items...you will use more power than if you have a smooth balanced rig. It is surprising how much drag even some dangling straps can add to your cruising speed...and how that affects the total length of time it takes to drain your battery.[/#0000ff]
[#0000ff][/#0000ff]
[#0000ff]Once you get a good feel for how your system performs, in terms of total hours on the water under "normal" conditions, you can project any potential differences for days when you are using the motor either more or less. A "prudent" tooner should know when to guide his rig back toward his launch point so that he doesn't have to row back against the wind after the battery dies.[/#0000ff]
[#0000ff][/#0000ff]
[#0000ff]If you have a large enough toon, with ample space on the rear deck, you might consider carrying a smaller backup battery, with enough power to get you back in if the primary battery leaves you unexpectedly stranded.[/#0000ff]
[#0000ff][/#0000ff]
[#0000ff]In Utah, we have had some good reports on the WalMart deep cycle batteries. They are usually priced right and have good guarantees. The key thing seems to be looking carefully at the date of manufacture. Go through the whole display and pick the newest one. Watch out for those that are over a year old.[/#0000ff]
[#0000ff][/#0000ff]
[#0000ff]Good luck.[/#0000ff]
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