12-13-2005, 02:32 AM
In an effort to rescue our sanity during this time of winter fishing withdrawals, and before I launch myself fully into the pursuit of steelhead, I thought I might offer a little tip that some of you flyfishing tubers might use.
As you probably know, fly fishing for trout and bass can be greatly enhanced by using different full lines made for fishing various depths. I often use a full floater, an intermediate, and full sinking lines in type 2 - 4. Carrying enough fly rods to hold these lines aboard a tube can promote tangles with your zipping fly line. (Spin fishermen and baitcasters don't have this problem so they can carry numerous rods in an upright position without too much hassle.) I have used shooting heads at times to make changing lines easier. These are simple to change when configured using a loop to loop system. I haven't ever liked using shooting heads as much as full lines, however, because they don't cast as smoothly.
You can change full lines while aboard your tube without sending your whole outfit sinking to the bottom of the lake. By doing so, you limit the number of rods you need to carry. Here's what works for me. You'll need multiple spools for your reel with leaders and your chosen lines pre-installed.
1. Reel in and remove the fly you are using. Reel the line and leader onto the spool. Remove the spool and tuck it safely away into your tube pocket. Snap on another spool that contains your chosen line and leader.
2. Pull enough fly line off the now reassembled reel to reach completely through all of the guides with a couple of feet to spare. Lay this line on the stripping apron.
3. Don't break down your rod yet. You don't want to drop the tip into the water and lose it. Grasp the flyline 6-10 inches above the leader and fold it back onto itself. (This folding will keep the line from slipping back through the guides if you should let go of it while you are stringing the rod.) Run this folded flyline through the stripping guide and the next several guides, going up as far as you can reach (the farther, the better) without hanging the butt of your rod over the edge of the tube.
4. With the line strung through the guides on the butt and part way up the tip of the rod, break the rod down in the middle, holding tightly to both halves.
5. With the tip now easily reached, finish pushing the folded over flyline through the guides and the tip top. Pull the line several feet beyond the tip top guide then grasp the trailing leader and pull it through.
6. Mount the rod tip back into the butt section, pull the line tight through the guides, and tie your fly onto the leader tippet.
Though this description sounds complicated, it really is quite simple. I recommend practicing it a couple of times before you try it aboard your tube in deep water. It should take about as long as fishing completely through a couple of casts and will eliminate the need to carry multiple rods. For convenience I still carry two rods strung with the lines I will most likely use for the day. This is most often a floater and a clear camo intermediate. When I need that third line I just do the switcheroo.
zonker
[signature]
As you probably know, fly fishing for trout and bass can be greatly enhanced by using different full lines made for fishing various depths. I often use a full floater, an intermediate, and full sinking lines in type 2 - 4. Carrying enough fly rods to hold these lines aboard a tube can promote tangles with your zipping fly line. (Spin fishermen and baitcasters don't have this problem so they can carry numerous rods in an upright position without too much hassle.) I have used shooting heads at times to make changing lines easier. These are simple to change when configured using a loop to loop system. I haven't ever liked using shooting heads as much as full lines, however, because they don't cast as smoothly.
You can change full lines while aboard your tube without sending your whole outfit sinking to the bottom of the lake. By doing so, you limit the number of rods you need to carry. Here's what works for me. You'll need multiple spools for your reel with leaders and your chosen lines pre-installed.
1. Reel in and remove the fly you are using. Reel the line and leader onto the spool. Remove the spool and tuck it safely away into your tube pocket. Snap on another spool that contains your chosen line and leader.
2. Pull enough fly line off the now reassembled reel to reach completely through all of the guides with a couple of feet to spare. Lay this line on the stripping apron.
3. Don't break down your rod yet. You don't want to drop the tip into the water and lose it. Grasp the flyline 6-10 inches above the leader and fold it back onto itself. (This folding will keep the line from slipping back through the guides if you should let go of it while you are stringing the rod.) Run this folded flyline through the stripping guide and the next several guides, going up as far as you can reach (the farther, the better) without hanging the butt of your rod over the edge of the tube.
4. With the line strung through the guides on the butt and part way up the tip of the rod, break the rod down in the middle, holding tightly to both halves.
5. With the tip now easily reached, finish pushing the folded over flyline through the guides and the tip top. Pull the line several feet beyond the tip top guide then grasp the trailing leader and pull it through.
6. Mount the rod tip back into the butt section, pull the line tight through the guides, and tie your fly onto the leader tippet.
Though this description sounds complicated, it really is quite simple. I recommend practicing it a couple of times before you try it aboard your tube in deep water. It should take about as long as fishing completely through a couple of casts and will eliminate the need to carry multiple rods. For convenience I still carry two rods strung with the lines I will most likely use for the day. This is most often a floater and a clear camo intermediate. When I need that third line I just do the switcheroo.
zonker
[signature]