09-26-2005, 10:36 PM
I'll add my "half-o-scent".
I do have lots of experience(I got it the hard way) with the PVC/ABS/Rigid Electrical Conduit creations(you should see my collection of inventions(patents applied for) for shore/bank fishing and my tube/toon/tin boat additions and modifications).
As TD alluded to - measure twice and cut once. Then go put it together and put everything on it that you will use - before you commit it to cement.
Now here's my experience with the practical application.
Put everything together as you envision it. Firm it up by hand. Then take a rubber mallet and tap all pieces so they are taut(not-tight)-(taut means you can still get it apart)-(tight means it could be very difficult to take back apart in order to glue). You don't have to glue everything. Somethings will be fine if you only hand tighen them - others will need to be tapped in to a secure postion and lastly, somethings MUST BE GLUED(if you don't want to lose something important at the most inconvenient time) - only your design and it's application will determine which is which.
When everything is in perfect alignment, mark(I use a Sharpie marker) all the individual pieces and label them so you can return them to their exact location.
Glue one piece at a time-this means glue one part and put it in the place you designed it to go. Use standard PVC cement(you only have a few seconds to get it exactly in place before it sets up forever-hence the marking). Or, you can use silicon boat/aquarium sealant or shoegoo, but those take some time to set up and gravity has a funny way of making things shift into an unexpected and new postion while you wait.
Everything that will have any weight attached to it or has to support any weight or pressure or will be subjected to any stress or vibration has to be glued. This includes any cross members, framework or supports.
Use the beefier schedule 40 PVS/ABS/REC for the heavy stuff or anything that will be sustaining rigorous usage - it doesn't weigh that much more than the light weight stuff but, will sustain far more abuse - unless you plan on packing it on your back for a long ways, it sounds like the durability factor should be considered.
Schedule 20 will work quite well for your rod holders and even for your fishfinder transducer. But be carefull, depending on how you are using it, you can break or crack the stuff with relative ease.
Note: Rod handles can be quite different across the board of manufactures. It would be a good idea to get a sample of the intended rod holder material to make sure your particular rods fit before you buy any of your materials. Also, my casting rods are different in diameter than my spinning rods, so, keep in mind you should not assume that all would fit the same. And as TD also mentioned, if you have foam handle rods the problem can be compounded.
If you want any help with anything - let me know. I've probably already run across and worked out any fabrication challanges you might encounter.
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I do have lots of experience(I got it the hard way) with the PVC/ABS/Rigid Electrical Conduit creations(you should see my collection of inventions(patents applied for) for shore/bank fishing and my tube/toon/tin boat additions and modifications).
As TD alluded to - measure twice and cut once. Then go put it together and put everything on it that you will use - before you commit it to cement.
Now here's my experience with the practical application.
Put everything together as you envision it. Firm it up by hand. Then take a rubber mallet and tap all pieces so they are taut(not-tight)-(taut means you can still get it apart)-(tight means it could be very difficult to take back apart in order to glue). You don't have to glue everything. Somethings will be fine if you only hand tighen them - others will need to be tapped in to a secure postion and lastly, somethings MUST BE GLUED(if you don't want to lose something important at the most inconvenient time) - only your design and it's application will determine which is which.
When everything is in perfect alignment, mark(I use a Sharpie marker) all the individual pieces and label them so you can return them to their exact location.
Glue one piece at a time-this means glue one part and put it in the place you designed it to go. Use standard PVC cement(you only have a few seconds to get it exactly in place before it sets up forever-hence the marking). Or, you can use silicon boat/aquarium sealant or shoegoo, but those take some time to set up and gravity has a funny way of making things shift into an unexpected and new postion while you wait.
Everything that will have any weight attached to it or has to support any weight or pressure or will be subjected to any stress or vibration has to be glued. This includes any cross members, framework or supports.
Use the beefier schedule 40 PVS/ABS/REC for the heavy stuff or anything that will be sustaining rigorous usage - it doesn't weigh that much more than the light weight stuff but, will sustain far more abuse - unless you plan on packing it on your back for a long ways, it sounds like the durability factor should be considered.
Schedule 20 will work quite well for your rod holders and even for your fishfinder transducer. But be carefull, depending on how you are using it, you can break or crack the stuff with relative ease.
Note: Rod handles can be quite different across the board of manufactures. It would be a good idea to get a sample of the intended rod holder material to make sure your particular rods fit before you buy any of your materials. Also, my casting rods are different in diameter than my spinning rods, so, keep in mind you should not assume that all would fit the same. And as TD also mentioned, if you have foam handle rods the problem can be compounded.
If you want any help with anything - let me know. I've probably already run across and worked out any fabrication challanges you might encounter.
[signature]