08-25-2005, 02:35 PM
[cool][#0000ff]Buying a sonar is a subjective thing...like buying a car, shoes or deciding which restaurant to go to. It is a matter of choice. Of course, we all like to get some input from others before making those choices.[/#0000ff]
[#0000ff][/#0000ff]
[#0000ff]I can't offer you any more than I have posted in many previous posts, or than I have included in the sonar buying guide on the Picture Board. However, I will make an effort to guide you in the evaluation process.[/#0000ff]
[#0000ff][/#0000ff]
[#0000ff]1. You do not need the biggest, baddest and most expensive unit for tubing, 'tooning and yakking. You need only three things: depth readings, bottom contour display and temperature. Having fish finding capability is good too, but unless you are only vertical jigging for schooled fish, most of the fish you catch will never be seen in advance on your display.[/#0000ff]
[#0000ff][/#0000ff]
[#0000ff]2. You CAN spend too LITTLE. Forget the toys, like the Smartcast. Spend enough to get the features you want and need, without falling prey to the slick marketing copy on those "gadgets".[/#0000ff]
[#0000ff][/#0000ff]
[#0000ff]3. You can get a workable unit that has less than a 1000 watts of peak to peak power. Again, for most "flotation fishing" situations, you will be fishing in water less than 30 feet deep. In Utah, we sometimes fish large trout in water over 50 feet deep, and we need "real time" display that will show both our lure and the fish that are in the vacinity...and how they are responding to the lure. That ability is available on quite a few higher wattage units, but it costs more and requires a lot more battery power. Those are units for big boats, not tubes or toons.[/#0000ff]
[#0000ff][/#0000ff]
[#0000ff]4. As you already recognize, try to get something with at least a 20 degree cone angle, if you want to see some fish on your screen. The units with 9 degree angles display only a very small "footprint" in the shallow waters typically fished by our kind.[/#0000ff]
[#0000ff][/#0000ff]
[#0000ff]5. Unless you plan to fish for "suspending" fish, like crappies or trout, you will get little value from a "side finder" feature. However, they can sometimes help locate fish holding over the bottom near shore, when you are casting to the shoreline from a position away from the shoreline. They are especially good for seeing crappies and sunfish holding on top of sunken cover.[/#0000ff]
[#0000ff][/#0000ff]
[#0000ff]6. Batteries? If the unit you choose runs on AA batteries, and can sustain you for a full day of fishing, then that is not an issue. Just buy a couple of sets of rechargeables and go for it. I personally prefer a good 7 amp 12 volt battery. It has plenty of juice to let me keep my sonar (and temp guage) on continuously, without worrying about running the battery down.[/#0000ff]
[#0000ff][/#0000ff]
[#0000ff]Look around for the gel cell SLA batteries. There are countless pieces of equipment and electronic devices that use them these days. If you can't find anything in your shopping area, check Cabelas. They usually have good deals on battery and charger combos. You will find them in the fishfinder section, as you will at some major sporting outlets.[/#0000ff]
[#0000ff][/#0000ff]
[#0000ff]Good luck in your search. Don't worry about asking your questions. We will help where we can, but the final decision is yours to make.[/#0000ff]
[signature]
[#0000ff][/#0000ff]
[#0000ff]I can't offer you any more than I have posted in many previous posts, or than I have included in the sonar buying guide on the Picture Board. However, I will make an effort to guide you in the evaluation process.[/#0000ff]
[#0000ff][/#0000ff]
[#0000ff]1. You do not need the biggest, baddest and most expensive unit for tubing, 'tooning and yakking. You need only three things: depth readings, bottom contour display and temperature. Having fish finding capability is good too, but unless you are only vertical jigging for schooled fish, most of the fish you catch will never be seen in advance on your display.[/#0000ff]
[#0000ff][/#0000ff]
[#0000ff]2. You CAN spend too LITTLE. Forget the toys, like the Smartcast. Spend enough to get the features you want and need, without falling prey to the slick marketing copy on those "gadgets".[/#0000ff]
[#0000ff][/#0000ff]
[#0000ff]3. You can get a workable unit that has less than a 1000 watts of peak to peak power. Again, for most "flotation fishing" situations, you will be fishing in water less than 30 feet deep. In Utah, we sometimes fish large trout in water over 50 feet deep, and we need "real time" display that will show both our lure and the fish that are in the vacinity...and how they are responding to the lure. That ability is available on quite a few higher wattage units, but it costs more and requires a lot more battery power. Those are units for big boats, not tubes or toons.[/#0000ff]
[#0000ff][/#0000ff]
[#0000ff]4. As you already recognize, try to get something with at least a 20 degree cone angle, if you want to see some fish on your screen. The units with 9 degree angles display only a very small "footprint" in the shallow waters typically fished by our kind.[/#0000ff]
[#0000ff][/#0000ff]
[#0000ff]5. Unless you plan to fish for "suspending" fish, like crappies or trout, you will get little value from a "side finder" feature. However, they can sometimes help locate fish holding over the bottom near shore, when you are casting to the shoreline from a position away from the shoreline. They are especially good for seeing crappies and sunfish holding on top of sunken cover.[/#0000ff]
[#0000ff][/#0000ff]
[#0000ff]6. Batteries? If the unit you choose runs on AA batteries, and can sustain you for a full day of fishing, then that is not an issue. Just buy a couple of sets of rechargeables and go for it. I personally prefer a good 7 amp 12 volt battery. It has plenty of juice to let me keep my sonar (and temp guage) on continuously, without worrying about running the battery down.[/#0000ff]
[#0000ff][/#0000ff]
[#0000ff]Look around for the gel cell SLA batteries. There are countless pieces of equipment and electronic devices that use them these days. If you can't find anything in your shopping area, check Cabelas. They usually have good deals on battery and charger combos. You will find them in the fishfinder section, as you will at some major sporting outlets.[/#0000ff]
[#0000ff][/#0000ff]
[#0000ff]Good luck in your search. Don't worry about asking your questions. We will help where we can, but the final decision is yours to make.[/#0000ff]
[signature]