04-21-2005, 06:21 AM
You can get by with just about anything if you need to, but whats the fun in that? Here are a few things that I have noted:
[ul] [li]Braided superlines are a pain to use with downriggers and inline planer boards. They tend to be slick and prematurely release from the clips, I usually end up having to make a loop around one end of the clip to make these lines hold. Mono, copoly, and flouro lines work well in the clips.[/li] [li]When downrigging I prefer a heavy tension clip where all but the biggest fish will not trip the rigger (I always use stacker clips with the line end of the clip cable lengthened to make even the smallest bites apparent, then I 'manually' release the down rigger by pulling the line out from my end, thus avoiding having to reset the DR for every bump and hit, especially when you are in the middle of a school, often these 'bumps' that would trip a normal clip will hit several more times until they get hooked). This works best with a long, light action rod. The problem here is that a no-stretch line may tear the hooks out before I can release the rigger, snubbers help a little with this, especially on kokanee.[/li] [li]Braided super lines seem to have too little give when trolling fast. Lighter action rods and loose drags help somewhat, but I prefer a mono,poly, or flouro line for this.[/li] [li]NOTHING beats a no-stretch super line for deep water jigging! [/li] [li]Level wind reels (baitcasters) have smoother and more even tension on the drag, tend to have less line twist, and are much easier to set the hook on when a fish takes your jig on the drop, which happens frequently (thumb the spool and set the hook). I definitely prefer these reels for fighting big macks.[/li] [li]I use spincasting rigs with power pro for casting, baitcasting rigs with power pro for jigging, level winds with mono (soon to be silver thread) for trolling and dragging inline planer boards, and line counters with long, light action rods for downrigging.[/li][/ul]
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[ul] [li]Braided superlines are a pain to use with downriggers and inline planer boards. They tend to be slick and prematurely release from the clips, I usually end up having to make a loop around one end of the clip to make these lines hold. Mono, copoly, and flouro lines work well in the clips.[/li] [li]When downrigging I prefer a heavy tension clip where all but the biggest fish will not trip the rigger (I always use stacker clips with the line end of the clip cable lengthened to make even the smallest bites apparent, then I 'manually' release the down rigger by pulling the line out from my end, thus avoiding having to reset the DR for every bump and hit, especially when you are in the middle of a school, often these 'bumps' that would trip a normal clip will hit several more times until they get hooked). This works best with a long, light action rod. The problem here is that a no-stretch line may tear the hooks out before I can release the rigger, snubbers help a little with this, especially on kokanee.[/li] [li]Braided super lines seem to have too little give when trolling fast. Lighter action rods and loose drags help somewhat, but I prefer a mono,poly, or flouro line for this.[/li] [li]NOTHING beats a no-stretch super line for deep water jigging! [/li] [li]Level wind reels (baitcasters) have smoother and more even tension on the drag, tend to have less line twist, and are much easier to set the hook on when a fish takes your jig on the drop, which happens frequently (thumb the spool and set the hook). I definitely prefer these reels for fighting big macks.[/li] [li]I use spincasting rigs with power pro for casting, baitcasting rigs with power pro for jigging, level winds with mono (soon to be silver thread) for trolling and dragging inline planer boards, and line counters with long, light action rods for downrigging.[/li][/ul]
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