02-23-2005, 10:35 PM
[cool][#0000ff]I ain't rich, but I also ain't broke. I can afford to buy the pricier blanks but I still wrap most of my rods on Cabela's Fish Eagle II and IM7 blanks. They are always exactly the length, strength and action I order. They do have quality and quality control.[/#0000ff]
[#0000ff][/#0000ff]
[#0000ff]On the two I just finished, they featured something new. They actually have a spiral wrap around the straight fibres on the lower third of the rod. I have never had one break, but that does add a measure of extra strength at the part of the rod that usually fails first on big fish or when abused on snags.[/#0000ff]
[#0000ff][/#0000ff]
[#0000ff]Fishing with a rod you made is probably one of the more gratifying things in fishing. It is right up there with tying your own flies and making your own jigs. Not only do you have gear matched to your style of fishing, you wrap it in the colors and designs you want, and when you are finished there is definitely no other rod in the world just like it...for better or worse.[/#0000ff]
[#0000ff][/#0000ff]
[#0000ff]For your first rod, you might be ahead to get a kit, so that all the component parts are there. I have built several rods from Cabelas kits. In doing a price out comparison, I cannot find where they charge any more than if you bought the parts separately, on your own. In fact, when you consider that they usually include thread, adhesives and rod finish, you probably come out ahead...as long as you like the color thread(s) they provide. I have a bunch of different colors.[/#0000ff]
[#0000ff][/#0000ff]
[#0000ff]You can probably figure out the basics by following directions and looking at a couple of web sites. However, you will do better if you have someone coaching you, while you work, and explaining the reasons for doing everything in the right order. It's kinda hard to "un-epoxy" something if you did it in the wrong order.[/#0000ff]
[#0000ff][/#0000ff]
[#0000ff]They had a rod building class at HFT last year. You live kinda far south to make one of those worthwhile, but if there are enough folks interested in having one in Utah County or something, we could maybe have a series of two or three classes to help a few folks make their own rods. The first gathering would be to decide what kind of rod they want and then make a shopping list and source of supply for the parts. Once everybody has their parts we could get together to fit and install the handles. That can take time and shaping, even with a kit. The next class would be guide wrapping. The last class would be finishing.[/#0000ff]
[#0000ff][/#0000ff]
[#0000ff]Good news. You do not need a fancy rod wrapping station. I learned to wrap rods by watching an uncle recondition his old bamboo fly rod while still a pup up in Idaho. My uncle put the spool of tying thread in a shallow bowl, ran the thread through the pages of a heavy dictionary (for tension) and simply held the delicate fairy wand in his hands as he turned it. I use a spring tension thread holding device, clamped onto my desk, but I still do most of my wrapping "hand held". When I have a longer one piece rod, or anything too heavy and cumbersome to work on without support, I prop one end in a felt covered groove in a piece of wood, sitting on a moveable wooden TV tray. Then, I just move the tray as I need to, in order to take the weight off my fingers as I turn the rod to wind it.[/#0000ff]
[#0000ff][/#0000ff]
[#0000ff]So, the good news is that you do not have to spend a fortune on setting up to wind a rod. About the only thing you will need to think about is some kind of motor to rotate the rod, horizontally, as the clear epoxy coating dries on the thread windings. You can do without that, but it definitely adds the "customized" finish look you want. Hint, I used the rotisserie motor from a grill for several years. Just had to duct tape it to a vertical support and use a shaft and masking tape to fit inside the base of the rod to get a good snug fit.[/#0000ff]
[#0000ff][/#0000ff]
[#0000ff]Rod building is like a lot of things. It's a big mystery and intimidating until you have done it once. Then you wonder why you never tried it before, and start planning all of the other rods you want to build.[/#0000ff]
[#0000ff][/#0000ff]
[#0000ff]Here's a semicomplete list of the parts you need"[/#0000ff]
[#0000ff]1. Rod Blank[/#0000ff]
[#0000ff]2. Reel Seat[/#0000ff]
[#0000ff]3. Graphite "arbors" (fit between rod and reel seat)[/#0000ff]
[#0000ff]4. Rear handle[/#0000ff]
[#0000ff]5. Butt cap (last thing to go on, after epoxy finish)[/#0000ff]
[#0000ff]6. Foregrip (in front of real seat)[/#0000ff]
[#0000ff]7. Tip top (needs to fit as precisely as possible)[/#0000ff]
[#0000ff]8. Guides...either 5 or 6 for most spinning rods.[/#0000ff]
[#0000ff]9. Ferrule cement (thermoplastic tip top bonding)[/#0000ff]
[#0000ff]10. Waterproof glue or epoxy (for handle assembly)[/#0000ff]
[#0000ff]11. Wrapping thread...size A for most freshwater[/#0000ff]
[#0000ff]12. Color preserver...liquid coating applied to wrapping thread to prevent discoloration when epoxied.[/#0000ff]
[#0000ff]13. Rod Finish...high build clear epoxy is best[/#0000ff]
[#0000ff]14. Optional: Winding check and Hook keeper ring.[/#0000ff]
[#0000ff][/#0000ff]
[#0000ff]Again, if you buy a good kit, most of the essentials will be contained. All you will need is a brush for the finishes and a razor blade for trimming the wraps as you whip finish them.[/#0000ff]
[signature]
[#0000ff][/#0000ff]
[#0000ff]On the two I just finished, they featured something new. They actually have a spiral wrap around the straight fibres on the lower third of the rod. I have never had one break, but that does add a measure of extra strength at the part of the rod that usually fails first on big fish or when abused on snags.[/#0000ff]
[#0000ff][/#0000ff]
[#0000ff]Fishing with a rod you made is probably one of the more gratifying things in fishing. It is right up there with tying your own flies and making your own jigs. Not only do you have gear matched to your style of fishing, you wrap it in the colors and designs you want, and when you are finished there is definitely no other rod in the world just like it...for better or worse.[/#0000ff]
[#0000ff][/#0000ff]
[#0000ff]For your first rod, you might be ahead to get a kit, so that all the component parts are there. I have built several rods from Cabelas kits. In doing a price out comparison, I cannot find where they charge any more than if you bought the parts separately, on your own. In fact, when you consider that they usually include thread, adhesives and rod finish, you probably come out ahead...as long as you like the color thread(s) they provide. I have a bunch of different colors.[/#0000ff]
[#0000ff][/#0000ff]
[#0000ff]You can probably figure out the basics by following directions and looking at a couple of web sites. However, you will do better if you have someone coaching you, while you work, and explaining the reasons for doing everything in the right order. It's kinda hard to "un-epoxy" something if you did it in the wrong order.[/#0000ff]
[#0000ff][/#0000ff]
[#0000ff]They had a rod building class at HFT last year. You live kinda far south to make one of those worthwhile, but if there are enough folks interested in having one in Utah County or something, we could maybe have a series of two or three classes to help a few folks make their own rods. The first gathering would be to decide what kind of rod they want and then make a shopping list and source of supply for the parts. Once everybody has their parts we could get together to fit and install the handles. That can take time and shaping, even with a kit. The next class would be guide wrapping. The last class would be finishing.[/#0000ff]
[#0000ff][/#0000ff]
[#0000ff]Good news. You do not need a fancy rod wrapping station. I learned to wrap rods by watching an uncle recondition his old bamboo fly rod while still a pup up in Idaho. My uncle put the spool of tying thread in a shallow bowl, ran the thread through the pages of a heavy dictionary (for tension) and simply held the delicate fairy wand in his hands as he turned it. I use a spring tension thread holding device, clamped onto my desk, but I still do most of my wrapping "hand held". When I have a longer one piece rod, or anything too heavy and cumbersome to work on without support, I prop one end in a felt covered groove in a piece of wood, sitting on a moveable wooden TV tray. Then, I just move the tray as I need to, in order to take the weight off my fingers as I turn the rod to wind it.[/#0000ff]
[#0000ff][/#0000ff]
[#0000ff]So, the good news is that you do not have to spend a fortune on setting up to wind a rod. About the only thing you will need to think about is some kind of motor to rotate the rod, horizontally, as the clear epoxy coating dries on the thread windings. You can do without that, but it definitely adds the "customized" finish look you want. Hint, I used the rotisserie motor from a grill for several years. Just had to duct tape it to a vertical support and use a shaft and masking tape to fit inside the base of the rod to get a good snug fit.[/#0000ff]
[#0000ff][/#0000ff]
[#0000ff]Rod building is like a lot of things. It's a big mystery and intimidating until you have done it once. Then you wonder why you never tried it before, and start planning all of the other rods you want to build.[/#0000ff]
[#0000ff][/#0000ff]
[#0000ff]Here's a semicomplete list of the parts you need"[/#0000ff]
[#0000ff]1. Rod Blank[/#0000ff]
[#0000ff]2. Reel Seat[/#0000ff]
[#0000ff]3. Graphite "arbors" (fit between rod and reel seat)[/#0000ff]
[#0000ff]4. Rear handle[/#0000ff]
[#0000ff]5. Butt cap (last thing to go on, after epoxy finish)[/#0000ff]
[#0000ff]6. Foregrip (in front of real seat)[/#0000ff]
[#0000ff]7. Tip top (needs to fit as precisely as possible)[/#0000ff]
[#0000ff]8. Guides...either 5 or 6 for most spinning rods.[/#0000ff]
[#0000ff]9. Ferrule cement (thermoplastic tip top bonding)[/#0000ff]
[#0000ff]10. Waterproof glue or epoxy (for handle assembly)[/#0000ff]
[#0000ff]11. Wrapping thread...size A for most freshwater[/#0000ff]
[#0000ff]12. Color preserver...liquid coating applied to wrapping thread to prevent discoloration when epoxied.[/#0000ff]
[#0000ff]13. Rod Finish...high build clear epoxy is best[/#0000ff]
[#0000ff]14. Optional: Winding check and Hook keeper ring.[/#0000ff]
[#0000ff][/#0000ff]
[#0000ff]Again, if you buy a good kit, most of the essentials will be contained. All you will need is a brush for the finishes and a razor blade for trimming the wraps as you whip finish them.[/#0000ff]
[signature]