02-19-2005, 12:54 PM
[cool][#0000ff]Proper inflation is a big thing with flotation fishing. Too much air and you can rip out a seam. Too little and you do not get good performance on the water. But, as long as your air chamber (bladder, tube or whatever) is still inside the cover, there is very little likelihood of exploding it. A well made cover, with good seams, contains the pressure on the air chamber up to a much higher pressure...but not infinitely.[/#0000ff]
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[#0000ff]I have never even tried to measure the PSI on an inflated tube or toon. Well, maybe back in the olden days, when I was using a donut with a truck tire inner tube inside. I do not remember what my maximum pressure ever was, but it was low. [/#0000ff]
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[#0000ff]Over the years, I have kinda gotten used to trusting my own judgment. I never travel with my craft fully inflated. First, they take up more space in my vehicle. Second, if they heat up in the vehicle, THEY CAN pop a seam if they expand beyond the fully inflated pressure.[/#0000ff]
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[#0000ff]When I get to the water, I pump up my craft just beyond the point where all the wrinkles are out and it feels firm to a good push anywhere on the craft. Some parts inflate faster than others, it seems. I use the pointed bow (stern) on my Fat Cat as the final test. [/#0000ff]
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[#0000ff]If it is already above 60 degree water temp (and/or air temp), that will usually get me by for the day. The air temp usually rises about 20 to 30 degrees on a sunny day without clouds and wind, so I usually do not have to worry about dropping the pressure later in the day.[/#0000ff]
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[#0000ff]If (like when I lived in Arizona) the air temp is over 80 degrees at dawn launch, I know it is going to be HOT by the time I get out of the water to go home. I still air up my craft until it is good and firm, especially if the water temp is below 80 degrees. As the sun rises, and the temps go up too, I occasionally monitor the firmness of my craft. If it still yields a bit, when I push a finger against it, I keep fishing. If I chip a fingernail on the taut cover, I head for shore and bleed off a little air, until the right degree of firmness is achieved. It usually does not take much.[/#0000ff]
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[#0000ff]By the way, unless you have easily accessible valves, it is easier to make a trip to shore. Some craft have the valves more conveniently located. Just don't go crazy and overdo it.[/#0000ff]
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[#0000ff]The last scenario is common here in Utah. You hit the launch spot at daybreak, and the thermometer "slept in". It is still cold. And the water temp is below 60. In those cases, I air up my craft past the point of basic firmness when I first get to the water. Then, I check it again after I am all "dressed up" and before launching. If it is still good and tight, then I launch. If it has softened a bit, I top it off good and then launch. Seldom does it suffer any more temperature "sag" if you allow it to air cool from your vehicle temp before heading out.[/#0000ff]
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[#0000ff]During the times of the year when both water and air temps are likely to be low, it is not a bad idea to carry a small pump in your craft when you go afloat. If you do experience partial deflation...either from the cold or an newly developed pinhole leak...having the pump with you can save a long trip back to your vehicle. It can also add some fishing time, which is even more important.[/#0000ff]
[#0000ff][/#0000ff]
[#0000ff]TubeN2 is kinda handy with the gadgets. He has rigged his 2-chamber craft up with a self regulating air pump system, that operates off his SLA sonar battery. Whenever the pressure in the two chambers becomes uneven, or drops below his designated pressure, the air pump quickly restores it to the norm. It is seldom needed, but good peace of mind to know it is there.[/#0000ff]
[#0000ff][/#0000ff]
[#0000ff]Depending on the type of air chamber(s) and valve(s) you have on your craft, you may have the option of inflating your ride with lungpower alone. While you can achieve operable inflation with lung power alone, you will do much better by using a good air pump and adding some more pressure before going afloat. However, in an emergency (leak, etc.) you can keep yourself afloat long enough to get back to your vehicle by lungpower alone.[/#0000ff]
[#0000ff][/#0000ff]
[#0000ff]I always carry a length of the clear vinyl plastic tubing that is just the right size to fit my valves. On some of my past rides, I could use it to add air while out on the water. Most craft have their valves located where you just about have to get out to make adjustments. Of course, if you time your trip to shore to take care of a call of nature, then you don't have to waste a trip.[/#0000ff]
[#0000ff][/#0000ff]
[#0000ff]Well, that's ALL I have to say about that (Forrest Gump). Hope it was ENOUGH.[/#0000ff]
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[#0000ff][/#0000ff]
[#0000ff]I have never even tried to measure the PSI on an inflated tube or toon. Well, maybe back in the olden days, when I was using a donut with a truck tire inner tube inside. I do not remember what my maximum pressure ever was, but it was low. [/#0000ff]
[#0000ff][/#0000ff]
[#0000ff]Over the years, I have kinda gotten used to trusting my own judgment. I never travel with my craft fully inflated. First, they take up more space in my vehicle. Second, if they heat up in the vehicle, THEY CAN pop a seam if they expand beyond the fully inflated pressure.[/#0000ff]
[#0000ff][/#0000ff]
[#0000ff]When I get to the water, I pump up my craft just beyond the point where all the wrinkles are out and it feels firm to a good push anywhere on the craft. Some parts inflate faster than others, it seems. I use the pointed bow (stern) on my Fat Cat as the final test. [/#0000ff]
[#0000ff][/#0000ff]
[#0000ff]If it is already above 60 degree water temp (and/or air temp), that will usually get me by for the day. The air temp usually rises about 20 to 30 degrees on a sunny day without clouds and wind, so I usually do not have to worry about dropping the pressure later in the day.[/#0000ff]
[#0000ff][/#0000ff]
[#0000ff]If (like when I lived in Arizona) the air temp is over 80 degrees at dawn launch, I know it is going to be HOT by the time I get out of the water to go home. I still air up my craft until it is good and firm, especially if the water temp is below 80 degrees. As the sun rises, and the temps go up too, I occasionally monitor the firmness of my craft. If it still yields a bit, when I push a finger against it, I keep fishing. If I chip a fingernail on the taut cover, I head for shore and bleed off a little air, until the right degree of firmness is achieved. It usually does not take much.[/#0000ff]
[#0000ff][/#0000ff]
[#0000ff]By the way, unless you have easily accessible valves, it is easier to make a trip to shore. Some craft have the valves more conveniently located. Just don't go crazy and overdo it.[/#0000ff]
[#0000ff][/#0000ff]
[#0000ff]The last scenario is common here in Utah. You hit the launch spot at daybreak, and the thermometer "slept in". It is still cold. And the water temp is below 60. In those cases, I air up my craft past the point of basic firmness when I first get to the water. Then, I check it again after I am all "dressed up" and before launching. If it is still good and tight, then I launch. If it has softened a bit, I top it off good and then launch. Seldom does it suffer any more temperature "sag" if you allow it to air cool from your vehicle temp before heading out.[/#0000ff]
[#0000ff][/#0000ff]
[#0000ff]During the times of the year when both water and air temps are likely to be low, it is not a bad idea to carry a small pump in your craft when you go afloat. If you do experience partial deflation...either from the cold or an newly developed pinhole leak...having the pump with you can save a long trip back to your vehicle. It can also add some fishing time, which is even more important.[/#0000ff]
[#0000ff][/#0000ff]
[#0000ff]TubeN2 is kinda handy with the gadgets. He has rigged his 2-chamber craft up with a self regulating air pump system, that operates off his SLA sonar battery. Whenever the pressure in the two chambers becomes uneven, or drops below his designated pressure, the air pump quickly restores it to the norm. It is seldom needed, but good peace of mind to know it is there.[/#0000ff]
[#0000ff][/#0000ff]
[#0000ff]Depending on the type of air chamber(s) and valve(s) you have on your craft, you may have the option of inflating your ride with lungpower alone. While you can achieve operable inflation with lung power alone, you will do much better by using a good air pump and adding some more pressure before going afloat. However, in an emergency (leak, etc.) you can keep yourself afloat long enough to get back to your vehicle by lungpower alone.[/#0000ff]
[#0000ff][/#0000ff]
[#0000ff]I always carry a length of the clear vinyl plastic tubing that is just the right size to fit my valves. On some of my past rides, I could use it to add air while out on the water. Most craft have their valves located where you just about have to get out to make adjustments. Of course, if you time your trip to shore to take care of a call of nature, then you don't have to waste a trip.[/#0000ff]
[#0000ff][/#0000ff]
[#0000ff]Well, that's ALL I have to say about that (Forrest Gump). Hope it was ENOUGH.[/#0000ff]
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