04-01-2004, 02:24 AM
[font "Comic Sans MS"][size 3]Hi LineDropper![/size][/font]
[font "Comic Sans MS"][size 3]Give Lee a call and tell him what year and make your motor is and he can look up your max operating RPM. From there it's getting the prop size and pitch to match your motor and boat. [/size][/font]
[font "Comic Sans MS"][size 3]When I brought my boat up from the coast, I had to go through the same stuff Predator did. I ended up going with a stainless steel Turbo performance prop with a 17 pitch. I can use the prop anywhere in Utah but really have to watch my RPMs when I hit the coast.[/size][/font]
[font "Comic Sans MS"][size 3]Also aluminum and stainless steel props respond differently. There is a lot of flex in an aluminum prop where S.S. doesn't flex as much. A good S.S. prop can give you and extra 300 RPM over an aluminum of the same diameter and pitch. If cost is a consideration S.S. may not the solution because the S.S. prop is a lot more money but if you're looking for performance then stainless is the way to go. [/size][/font]
[font "Comic Sans MS"][size 3]A stainless steel prop can bite with a lot less water than aluminum. We had to raise my motor almost 3" to fine tune the motor/prop to the boat. When the aluminum prop was on, I would dive the boat into a hard turn and the prop would break loose but by just changing to a s.s. prop I could full throttle thru all turns without the prop breaking loose. There's that much difference.[/size][/font]
[font "Comic Sans MS"][size 3]Also another thing to think about. If you hit your prop on the bottom, it's real easy to screw the prop's pitch up even stainless steel. Some folks don't bother having their prop checked after hitting bottom, especially if it doesn't have obvious damage but you can drastically change the performance characteristics and flatten out the blade's pitch, causing a seroius degrading of the prop's performance.[/size][/font]
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[font "Comic Sans MS"][size 3]Give Lee a call and tell him what year and make your motor is and he can look up your max operating RPM. From there it's getting the prop size and pitch to match your motor and boat. [/size][/font]
[font "Comic Sans MS"][size 3]When I brought my boat up from the coast, I had to go through the same stuff Predator did. I ended up going with a stainless steel Turbo performance prop with a 17 pitch. I can use the prop anywhere in Utah but really have to watch my RPMs when I hit the coast.[/size][/font]
[font "Comic Sans MS"][size 3]Also aluminum and stainless steel props respond differently. There is a lot of flex in an aluminum prop where S.S. doesn't flex as much. A good S.S. prop can give you and extra 300 RPM over an aluminum of the same diameter and pitch. If cost is a consideration S.S. may not the solution because the S.S. prop is a lot more money but if you're looking for performance then stainless is the way to go. [/size][/font]
[font "Comic Sans MS"][size 3]A stainless steel prop can bite with a lot less water than aluminum. We had to raise my motor almost 3" to fine tune the motor/prop to the boat. When the aluminum prop was on, I would dive the boat into a hard turn and the prop would break loose but by just changing to a s.s. prop I could full throttle thru all turns without the prop breaking loose. There's that much difference.[/size][/font]
[font "Comic Sans MS"][size 3]Also another thing to think about. If you hit your prop on the bottom, it's real easy to screw the prop's pitch up even stainless steel. Some folks don't bother having their prop checked after hitting bottom, especially if it doesn't have obvious damage but you can drastically change the performance characteristics and flatten out the blade's pitch, causing a seroius degrading of the prop's performance.[/size][/font]
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