Basic Questions

[SENKOSAM1]

[font="Trebuchet MS", Verdana, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]BTW, how's fishing been since your post?
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[font="Trebuchet MS", Verdana, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]basic questions:[/font]
[font="Trebuchet MS", Verdana, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif] Why should I care about line test besides obviously the breaking point for larger fish? Why wouldn't someone just buy the heaviest, strongest line possible?
   Line diameter is the most important consideration when it comes to lure action. Too stiff a line for some smaller lures, less action.

Do the fish get spooked if they can see the line? Can they even see fishing line?
  Fish ignore line and are not line shy. Fish focus on the lure or live bait and either strike or not.

How would someone know what type of fish they're fishing for (in order to size up prospective equipment needs) without being able to see what's under the water?
  If your going for larger fish especially in salt water, you need heavier tackle i.e. heavy action 7' rod, 30 lb test line, larger lures, etc. Smaller lures for smaller fish averaging less than 6 lbs.
I use micro size lures to catch small bass and panfish just because I'm addicted to the strike - any strike.

Is it basically just a word-of-mouth type activity where you basically need to know someone experienced to have any luck? I would really like to know what's "normal" or useful so that I can buy fishing gear at the store but people just look at me like I have 2 heads anytime i ask a "why" question.
  Fishing forums at times do have useful information based on the experiences and lessons learned after years of fishing. When it comes to lure choice, thousands of lures have what I call strike-triggers, meaning that they possess a shape, action and size to provoke fish to strike. Myths have existed mainly to sell tackle yet never address lure presentation and how to best work a lure.

Is there some kind of match up between line, reel, and pole size that I'm supposed to know/be using?
  Again, function is key. i.e. - light action 5-5.5' rod, 6 lb test braid, smaller spinning reel or spincast reel perfect for many freshwater species in lakes 20' deep or less.
i.e. baitcast or spinning reel, medium action 7' rod, 20 lb test braid for serious bass fishing.
  Note: reels have a gear ratio: the amount of line brought in with each turn of the reel handle.
  Note: [font="Trebuchet MS", Verdana, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]You don't have to spend big bucks on good tackle to catch fish. Most of my rods and reel cost less than $35; lures I make cost pennies.[/font]

All the information I've gained from books, internet, and youtube are essentially just rehashing of the same non-practical information on specs, locations, and specifics such as gear/bait types.. none of which are any help at all
   All that does is limit your options. Key is finding fish in the first place and for that, a boat and sonar are #1! Can't catch them if they aren't where you cast your lure. Lures are your fish finders and reveal fish location patterns: deep or shallow water, weeds or rocky areas, flats or drops, if fish are chasing a lure or need time to be irritated enough to strike it, early bite or all day long bite, etc.
Note: fish don't strike because of hunger, anger or any reason a human would strike something. Strike triggers are everything that overload a fish's super-senses forcing it to slam a lure!

The above is based on over 60 years of experience. Articles used to be bible for chosing lures and tackle before forums. Now, never ending, on-going discovery and surprise is the challenge. 

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