05-01-2025, 10:28 PM
(05-01-2025, 06:36 PM)BYUHunter Wrote: I think having a battery jump starter (in working condition) should work fine. I would also start up the main and idle it for a while if voltage on the cranking battery drops to 12.0 V. I just try not to run my main needlessly, since hours on your main heavily influences depreciation.
I have not found that to be the case. When I repowered and sold the old engine, hours were not a factor. On a 300 Pro XS it probably matters, but it didn't on my original 115EFI.
At least on my 300 ProXS, the prop is mounted via a rubber "Flo-Torq" hub that will "spin" inside the hub of the prop if it were to contact something solid. This was designed because of exactly what you said - in the old days when a stainless prop was installed straight onto steel splines, it was an expensive game of "what's going to break first?" if you hit something. The rubber prop hubs these days are similar to a shear pin on a snowblower - a designated failure point.
That's what I was getting at. There are several different versions of the rubberized Flo Torq hubs, it seems they would prevent lower unit damage in the event of a prop strike. Of course, if you run the housing into an obstruction, all bets are off.
Single main, no kicker. 